Halving

Halving: wood

Overlapping - sometimes over-plating - is the simplest form of corner or longitudinal connection in the Frame building. The thickness of the workpieces is halved alternately, so that the connecting ends fit like two leaves on each other, By halving the wood thickness on both sides, the overlap is just as strong as the individual pieces of wood.

The overlap is only used for wood joints that do not have to withstand major loads, such. B. Decorative frame. It is sufficient with sufficient contact surface of the workpieces often to glue the parts only.

But you can also hammer in additional nails or screw the frame parts. Again, as always, you should pre-drill the holes if necessary, so that the wood does not split. Another alternative is the use of continuous wooden dowels that are flush with the wooden surface and can also be used as decorative elements.

At the straight Corner, cross or longitudinal overlap looks the connection from the front and back the same. This also applies to the longitudinal connection in the form of a Hakenblattung or one Gerber impact. Seen from the side, a hook blade looks like two interlocking hooks.

A tanner's thrust is built like a sloping hook blade, with the difference that the hook was omitted. Therefore, seen from the side, only two wedges meet each other. The situation is quite different for the weaker one Overlapping on miter out. On the back you can see a joint, as it occurs in the simple Ecküberblade.

On the front, however, a miter can be seen. Other more complex and stable variants are for example the double oblique (French) overlap or the Overlapping with dovetail cones (see also zincation).

Instructions overlap

Marking the notch

Halving: workpieces

Ecküberblattung

Halving: crack

Angle the light crack with a stop angle

Halving: workpieces

Marking the spread with a strike size

At a straight corner overlap For a frame, first draw the width of the wood at the ends of the workpieces around all four sides. With a stop angle you put this so-called About angles sure that the lines of the so-called light crack be drawn at right angles to the edges of the workpiece.

The light tear indicates which surface the workpieces will occupy with the respective counterpart. It gets more elegant, however, if you omit the light crack on the surfaces that rise up the visible front and back sides of the frame be located.

The mark out The thickness of the notch is determined by striking with a strike of the Line of the light crack starting half of the determined wood thickness transfers to the end of the frame part. The line of the so-called Streichmaßrisses runs over three side surfaces, namely on the two narrow sides and the end face at the end of a workpiece.

The strike scale begins on one Page with the light crack as starting point and ends on the opposite side with the light tear as the end point. The strike outline indicates where the boundary between two wooden parts to be joined will run.

Sawing the notch

After all necessary dimensions has, you clamped the wooden part upright and saws one slot of the front going down to the light crack. Two things are important: you should use a saw with fine teeth, so that the cut is very precise and shatterproof.

A trimming saw lends itself to this. You should always be on the half drawn line, d. H. do not cut exactly on the line, on the side of the wood to be removed, otherwise you would be removing too much material.

It is best to mark the sloping wood with small crosses or hatchings in pencil. Sawing the slot on the light plan is done in the same way with a fine saw, if you have repositioned the wood part and clamped.

Alternatively you can work off the notch with a chisel. For that one saws Slits in the sloping wood parallel to the light crack and removes the remaining remains from the front.

Halving: light

Sawing next to the light crack

Halving: wood

Various chisels

Halving: workpieces

Notching with crowbar

Cleaning, gluing and plastering

After the sawing work, all inner edges are cleaned and sanded. After that, on all interior surfaces wood glue applied. Finally, the workpieces are stacked and fixed with a screw or clamp clamp. To avoid bruises, one should pressure allowances use.

It should be ensured that the Do not pressure the joints of the overlap cover them, because otherwise they come into contact with excess glue and can stick to the frame. Once the connection has dried, the frame edges are broken and the frame smoothed.

Halving: crack

Smoothing the workpiece

Halving: crack

Notched workpieces

Halving: halving

Fitting the workpieces

Variant: cross overlapping

A Kreuzüberblattung is prepared analogously to a Ecküberblade, d. H. The dimensions are torn on the workpieces with the help of a folding rule, stop angle and strike size. Only that Notching the wood takes place in a different way.

After clamping the workpiece are in accordance with the Notched notch from above two slots sawn into the workpiece, Subsequently, the workpiece is clamped so that the side of the workpiece points upwards.

Only then can you chop off the notch properly with chisel and joiner's jar. One should, however, remain about one centimeter from the strike scale, because the fine work done with a planer. For this purpose, the workpiece is turned again, so that the struck surface smoothly planed and sanded from above can be.

Halving: halving

Pricking out the notches

Halving: wood

Notched workpieces

Halving: crack

Composite workpieces

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