Retrofitting burglary protection for doors - you have these options

Straight doors are a major problem when it comes to burglar resistance when they are older. Replacing the profile cylinder is far from complete. What problems there can be when retrofitting a door, and which options almost always work, can be found here.

Problems with retrofitting

Doors that fail to retrofit to a higher resistance class are always a problem. A door is always a functional unit, all parts play together. If a part is a bit weaker, the entire door suffers from its resistance.

When retrofitting a door, there is often the problem that you can not fix all the weak points of the door - the door as a whole therefore still has less resilience than it should actually have.

In many cases, therefore, only the replacement of the door as a really useful measure. Often, it is worth taking the opportunity to reinforce or secure the door frames, or to renew and strengthen the strike plates.

retrofit options

When retrofitting you can first of all distinguish between fundamentally important equipment and possible additional equipment.

Important components

The essential and indispensable components of a secure entrance door include at least:

  • a sturdy door leaf (solid wood is an important protection)
  • tested (DIN) security striking plates with wall anchors
  • stable mortise locks
  • Protective fittings of a high protection class (at least ES 2 better ES 3)
  • a stable, burglar-resistant door cylinder with corresponding security card

These parts can be retrofitted to most doors. Whether the entire door is actually safe then can only be determined on the basis of the conditions on site by a specialist. If in doubt, he is more likely to advise an exchange of the door.

Incidentally, this information applies only to entrance doors - for side entrance doors, the protection is usually much less high, although in many cases would be quite appropriate.

More options

Further possibilities for additional safeguards are:

  • tank latch
  • Hinge side guards
  • Door bar locks
  • Additional locks for doors
  • Electronic locking cylinders or systems with remote control

tank latch

Armored bars extend over the entire width of the door and, when closed, securely anchor the door to the sides of the door frame in the masonry. You can also be opened from the outside with a key on a security lock (so-called cross bar) and thus find application for apartment doors.

Hinge side guards

It is important that the closing side and the hinge side are equally strong - otherwise the door can be easily levered open. Hinge side fuses are loadable in most cases up to a pressure resistance of one ton.

Door bar locks

Bar locks extend vertically over the entire height. They are a very good option, especially for old building doors, if otherwise no improvements can be made with old or very high doors.

Additional locks for doors

Additional locks are available in various shapes and designs, including with locking bolts, to open the door with only a gap.

Electronic locking cylinders or systems with remote control

Electronic locking cylinders are opening systems where you must enter a predetermined code to open the door. Non-contact systems with remote control (RFID, Bluetooth via mobile phone) are also possible. Both systems offer a very high burglary resistance and are considered safer than conventional locking systems. Even fingerprint scans are possible today.

Tips & Tricks

By the way, mortise locks can also be self-locking. This is a not to be underestimated protection - after all, 11% of all burglaries happen completely without tools, because the door was only pulled, but not locked. Self-locking doors help to avoid that.

Video Board: Home Security & Safety Tips: Installing a Door Security Guard: Part 2