Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: construction

Just in time for Christmas, the house is decorated, the windows are decorated for Christmas and the Christmas decorations are distributed on the tables and chests of drawers. But all the Christmas decoration must be accommodated the rest of the year and if possible stowed away to save space.

With our construction manual, you can build a Christmas tree yourself, which not only looks unique, but can also be stowed away to save space. Flat, he just needs a height of 18 mm, but he shows up in its full and round shape.

Gladly the building instructions can be used to build different sized Christmas trees. If desired, even a "real" big Christmas tree can be produced, which can then be colorfully decorated and even equipped with candles. Simply use slats of different lengths instead of sawed wooden slats.

Required tools and work material

Required tool

  • Marking agent (pencils and steel measure)
  • Mini Circular Saw, Table Saw or Circular Saw
  • Bench drill or cordless screwdriver
  • Orbital sander (or other grinding tool)
  • optional router or router table
  • Forstner drill diameter 16 mm

Our default dimension refers to a glued wood board, as it is available in every hardware store, but can also be adapted to your own wishes. In our construction manual a board measuring 300 x 600 x 18 mm is used.

Used work material

  • Glued wood panel Beech or similar stable wood 300 x 600 x 18 mm
  • Threaded rod M8 or M6 (adjust bore holes)
  • fitting nut and washer

Step 1 - Crack by default, existing wood or own wishes

Should be used a firmer wood, such as beech or oak. The relatively soft pine / spruce glued wood tends to burst quickly and is rather unsuitable. With a little feeling or a thicker material, this can also be used. In this case, the course of the grain is important. As spruce glulam easily breaks along the grain, it should be across the height of the Christmas tree. In the example shown beech was used and the grain pattern plays a minor role.

In the first step, place the board upright and mark the center, which is marked with a vertical pencil line. The line may be clearly visible as it will be needed later for drilling the sawn strips. Next, mark the desired height of the tree on the centerline. They achieve a good result with a width-height ratio of 3: 4. With a 30mm glulam board you get a height of 40 cm.

By connecting the marking and the lower corners, the basic shape of the self-built Christmas tree already arises. Due to the later saw cuts, he will still lose height.

Step 2 - Cutting with mini-plunge saw, circular saw or table saw

After the tree has been cracked, it can be sawn as a triangle with a table saw, a circular saw or a jigsaw. If the saw result is not exactly exact, this plays a minor role. It makes sense, however, already to trim the cut edges. If the strips are sawn first, the resulting small areas are difficult to smooth.

In order to later give the Christmas tree a "volume", the sawn triangle must be sawn into several strips. Which saw you use for this is up to you. However, the narrower the saw blade, the less loss will result in the later total height. Therefore, a mini dip saw with a thin saw blade is advantageous. Equally practical is to use a side stop, which guarantees an always consistent cutting width. The spacing of the cuts should be approximately the same as the selected material thickness (18 mm).

Then the sawn strips can be ground. Make sure, however, that the middle plan is still visible.

Tip: Start with the long side when cutting. If deviations creep in and if the cuts go wrong after several stripes, this is hardly visible at the top later.

Step 3 - Drilling the items

The drilling of the parts should preferably be done on a bench drill or a drill stand, as any deviation determines the later image.

Create a stop for this, which guarantees a central bore of the strips. The lateral alignment is based on the remaining center mark. When drilling, the lateral slanted cut surfaces must always point downwards. This is very important, on the one hand to achieve a consistent hole pattern, if the stop was not exactly aligned and on the other hand to be able to drill the tip in this position. The centerline should point to you and is used for alignment. Tear and drill should be in alignment. Drill - all the way to the top - all sawed strips with an 8 mm drill bit. A bore of 8.1 or 8.2 mm later makes it easier to perform the threaded rod, but the game should not be bigger.

After drilling all parts can now be ground. The center tear is no longer needed.

Step 4 - The tip needs a thread

In order to give the self-built Christmas tree later, all parts must be threaded onto a threaded rod, which is attached in the top. The attachment can be done in different ways and certainly falls one or the other a separate or preferred variant.

Probably the simplest form would be to make the hole in the top slightly larger and to fix the threaded rod with glue. Somewhat more elaborate is the use of a so-called Rampa socket or impact sleeve. For this purpose, a hole of about 10 mm is drilled and a threaded sleeve screwed or hammered, which provides the required M8 thread available. However, you should pre-drill generously to prevent bursting of the rather small tip.

As a third variant, it is also possible to cut a thread in the wood. The firmer the wood used, the better suited this variant. Drill the required core hole of 6.8 mm and then turn the taps in alignment. On cutting oil can of course be dispensed with in this case. Although the thread is certainly not as strong as in metal, so it is quite sufficient for this application. It is advantageous to cut the thread as deep as possible without the hole being visible at the tip.

Step 5 - Design the base plate

The design of the base can be done according to your own ideas. Whether round or square or as a cube, depends on your taste and the tools available. Can be used for this, the rest of the existing glulam. Even a darker wood species can work very well.

In our model, we decided on a slightly thicker and round disc with a diameter of about 150 mm, which looks very good with the tree. The cut-out can be made with a jigsaw or, if available, with a router and a cutting compass. If a router is available, a contour milling rounds off the simple appearance of the disc.

Important is a central hole of 8 mm, which is additionally lowered with a Forstner drill to a diameter of about 16 mm and a depth of at least 10 mm. The counterbore serves to receive a washer and a nut with an M8 thread. The diameter of 16 mm refers to a standard 13-pin socket, with which the nut can be tightened. However, a lot of power is not needed, so that the mother can be easily held with your fingers.

Step 6 - Adjust the threaded rod

In the last step, the Christmas tree can be assembled and the threaded rod must be adjusted accordingly.

For this, first turn the threaded rod into the thread of the tree top and tighten it slightly. Some glue can support a permanent hold. Subsequently, all tree parts are threaded onto the threaded rod in size. For a later easier twisting a washer can be placed between all parts. This gives the tree a slightly slimmer look and all parts are easy to turn even if not so exact cut. Subsequently, the base is placed and fastened by means of a threaded nut. If the hole was lowered deep enough, even a self-locking nut can be used. Tighten the nut so that all parts of the tree are still easy to turn.

Thus, the required length of the threaded rod is set, can be marked and tailored to fit. Use a metal saw, an angle grinder or similar tool. However, remove the threaded rod from the wood or remove the lower wooden strips so as not to damage them.

In order to easily remove the burr arising during cutting, a nut can first be turned onto the threaded rod, which pushes the burr outwards after being separated when twisted off. However, a self-locking nut should not be used for this purpose. The resulting heat and burr would damage the plastic ring. Finally, the tree can be bolted and placed again. It is up to you how to arrange the strips - uneven for a natural look or as a staircase for a modern look.

We wish you a Merry Christmas.

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: tree

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: construction

Mark the center line The basic shape is torn

The tree is created from a triangle

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: build

Sawing with mini dip saw and stop

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: yourself

The whole tree cut into strips

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: tree

Drilling with stop on the bench drill

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: build

Cut threads in wood

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: yourself

Edges can be embellished on the router table

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: yourself

Do not forget to reduce the intake of the mother

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: tree

The protruding threaded rod must be shortened

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: yourself

Carefully shorten the threaded rod

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: christmas

With a low cut, nothing stands over

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: yourself

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: build

Build a Christmas tree yourself - construction manual: build

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