Install the door frame yourself

The installation of a normal wooden interior door is basically not that difficult. For many Handyman, he is new territory, and especially when For the first time you will spend some time, the door frame or - as the person skilled in the art puts it - to precisely align the door lining. However, further work should be easy, and during one larger extension or conversion you already have the processes under control at the second door, Until then, our manual will provide you with the necessary know-how and will show you step by step text and pictures on how to proceed with the installation of the door frame and the installation of the door leaf. Incidentally, you can follow the instructions even if you install a heavier door, such as a glass-filled version. But then it always makes sense to have a helper.

Install the door frame yourself: install

With the right tool, the Zargeneinbau succeeds.

Tools and materials

  • ruler
  • screwdriver
  • spirit level
  • Cuttermesser
  • wooden wedges
  • Soft-faced hammer or locksmith's hammer with allowance
  • possibly wood glue
  • Component PU foam
  • Three door panels or Türzargenzwingen
  • plywood plates
  • acetone
  • Gloves and goggles

Wall opening and door size

Today are the Dimensions for the door sizes and wall openings in the standard DIN 18101 genormt. If the house was built in recent decades, the chances are not so bad that you can install a standard door from the trade in the existing wall opening without difficulty.

In a drywall, you should pay attention from the outset that the Door opening made of reinforced UA profiles and a lintel profile in size according to the standard.

Install the door frame yourself: yourself

Additional feeder for a drywall door.

It gets a bit more complicated in only two cases: Once when you build walls yourself, for example in the drywall process as part of a removal an attic divide. In this case, you should make the wall openings equal to the standard dimensions - so you save a lot of work. The other case concerns old buildings, It was not uncommon for door openings to be made according to the architect's taste or even the bricklayer's mood. That was not bad, because the frames and doors were usually made by a carpenter to match the openings. Of course, this is not the best prerequisite for the installation of a standard door.

If necessary, you must have one expand or reduce existing opening, The decrease is always the simpler solution, since you are about to be mortared sufficiently pressure-resistant aerated concrete strip an opening can also significantly reduce, without having to waste a thought to the statics. That's when Expand not so easybecause the lintel must continue to be adequately supported by the walls adjacent to the opening, especially in load-bearing walls. If in doubt, consult a structural engineer here.

To match wall openings, door and frame dimensions, you can refer to the following table with the most frequently used door sizes, If you stick to it, the subsequent replacement of a door leaf should be easily possible if required.

wall openingDoor leaf single-leafDoor leaf single-leaf
Nominal dimensionsDoors with foldDoors without fold
635 x 2005610 x 1985584 x 1972
760x2005735 x 1985709 x 1972
885x 2005860 x 1985834 x 1972
1010x 2005985 x 1985959 x 1972
760 x 2130735 x 2110709x2097
885 x 2130860x210834x2097
1010 x 2130985 x 2110959x2097
1135 x 21301110 x 21101084x2097

In addition, you must of course the respective Take wall thickness into accountif you buy a door frame. The wall thickness is measured, including all wall coverings, plaster, wallpaper or tile so count with.

Finally, the stop side is importantIf you look at the door opening from the side where the door is hung in the frame, then this is a left door, if the door hinges are on the left, and a right door, if the door hinges are right,

Install the door frame yourself: install

Set up and align the door frame.

Normally one chooses the hinge side so that the door opens to a nearby wall, otherwise it juts in the open state into the middle of the room and is in the way. Build the walls and rooms yourself, then plan the attack side based on the intended use, in an exchange in the old building you usually take the previous stop.

Assemble and adjust the frame

The frame is first assembled from the individual parts, then you put them in the door opening. If a floor covering is to be laid later, you can also put it on tiles or wedges.

Install the door frame yourself: yourself

It is even more comfortable with such special clamps. They hold the door frame in position and can be adjusted during alignment, without having to loosen the clamp.

Fertigzargen are usually supplied in individual parts: The parts of the door lining that cover the soffits and the fall, you build depending on the make with the help of Screws, flat dowels or staples and / or glue together. To do this place the parts on a sufficiently large flat surface and make sure that the lateral frame parts do not tip over to the outside - The connections between fall clothing and side clothing are not always particularly resilient and can break out at carelessness. This also applies to the wallcoverings.

On the side with the door hinges is usually the clothing - so the frame, which you see from the room or hallway around the door - already mounted. On the other hand, it is only installed after the frame has been installed.

Install the door frame yourself: yourself

On the sides and also above, the position of the frame must be right: The side frames must be vertical, the lintel clothing must lie exactly level, the frame as a whole must not tilt outwards or inwards - check with the spirit level.

Once the frame has been assembled, place it in the wall opening and provisionally fix it with wedges. Place the wedges at the level of the bands and the lock. If the door is to be installed higher than the ground level, for example because a floor covering is still to follow and so far only the unfinished floor is present, you can put it on wooden tiles or wedges to leave space for the floor below. It is better, however, first to lay the floor and then install the frames. This saves work when laying and looks cleaner later.

Install the door frame yourself: install

Now insert three door panels - at the level of the two hinges and the lock. No matter whether you use simple or technically cleverly designed spreaders: They must be used as precisely as possible horizontally.

Now follows the most tedious part of the operation: The frame must be aligned exactly straight and at right angles. This means that it must form an exact, vertical rectangle. First of all, it must not be tilted to the left or right. The distances between the linings of the soffits must also be measured at different heights and be the same everywhere. Furthermore, the vertical parts must be exactly vertical. And finally, the frame should have no inclination into the room and to the outside. The vertical to the left and right, front and back check as well with the spirit level as the horizontal position of the

Install the door frame yourself: yourself

The wedging is now checked again for correct and firm fit, vertical and horizontal alignments are controlled with the spirit level

Spread and finally wedge out

Install the door frame yourself: yourself

The can with PU foam is shaken thoroughly according to the manufacturer's instructions, then the foam is injected into the gap between the side frame parts and the wall.

Now put three struts in the door opening, and that as exactly horizontal as possible at the level of the hinges and at the height of the lock, Most practical are special door panels that can be adjusted by a screw mechanism or with quick release levers of clear frame width. Other struts consist of boards that are mutually displaceable and can be fixed when it reaches the appropriate distance. It is sometimes possible to rent spreaders at carpentry companies and almost always rent them in tool rental. If you have to set several doors, it is also worth buying. Theoretically, of course, you can also use stable, fitting cut slats and wooden wedges spread, but that is far more uncomfortable.

Install the door frame yourself: frame

It swells out swelled assembly foam and can then easily be cut off with a knife. If PU splashes have gone wrong during foaming, they are removed with fresh acetone.

Now, finally, wed the door frame at the level of the struts by fixing the fixed seat and the Check the position of the wedges, if necessary, knock in a little harder and if necessary set more wedges. Then check the seat of the frame again, then try to hang the door leaf carefully. It opens and closes properly, does not fall by itself, does not swing on its own, then you have worked perfectly. Otherwise, you will need to readjust until the frame is accurate.

Foam door frame

Once this is done, hang the door leaf again. Now you can do that Space between wall and frame with Foam polyurethane foam. The can is shaken according to the manufacturer's instructions, then you usually put on a spray tube and brings the foam in the space between the wall and frame. You should be economical and fill the gap in half - the foam expands until it fills the gap.

Attention: The space above the door is not filled with foam.

Since PU foam can expand violently and unleash tremendous forces, you should try a so-called Spreader-free foam use. The risk is significantly lower that the frame is deformed during expansion or even damaged. Spreader pressure-free foam is also useful in drywall constructions: Although reinforced door profiles are available for the installation of door openings in the stud frame, they also do not withstand inductive forces indefinitely.

To improve the adhesion and to support the curing of the PU foam, you can spray the wall reveals with water. However, the frame should not get too much moisture, as it is often made of wood materials that resent excessive watering.

When working with PU foam gloves and goggles should be worn. If there is some foam next to it, it can be easily removed with acetone when it is fresh, later only mechanically. However, do not use acetone on sensitive paint or plastic surfaces and keep it away from the skin, as it dries when exposed to acetone.

After foaming you wait one to two hours - depending on what the manufacturer of the foam indicates. After that are hardened, swollen out Foam supernatants simply cut off with a craft knife.

If the foam is through hardened and fully loadable, you can remove protruding wedges and hook in the door.

Normally, nothing has changed during foam filling on the frame geometry and the door works perfectly. If it does not work properly or in the worst case does not close properly, then you can cut the foam in an emergency and readjust the frame. However, this will rarely be necessary, and you should always try to adjust the hinges first and solve the problem that way.

If, on the other hand, everything works as expected, the missing clothing can be put in front of the filled-in gap. Usually, the clothing frame is glued in a circumferential groove on the edge of the frame.

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Video Board: How To Make a Door Frame