Drywall: Guide


In the interior construction, the dry construction process is of great importance overall - profiles made of wood or metal, to which plasterboard panels are screwed, are generally used.
In this way not only rooms can be divided, but also the entire interior work, for example in an attic, perform, or even produce suspended ceilings. However, it is important to use the right materials for the right purposes, and first and foremost to carry out appropriate planning.

The necessary decisions in advance

The first decision to make is whether to use metal or wooden profiles. Depending on the purpose, one or the other may be more advantageous. Metal profiles are the first choice for sharing rooms, if you want to make the crooked walls of an old building straight, you usually do better with wood profiles.

The next decision to be made in advance concerns the type of plasterboard to be used. Criteria for the selection are the required thickness and the stability on the one hand, on the other hand, whether special properties are needed. There are plasterboards with integrated insulation layer, with moisture protection for wet areas, those with fire protection qualities or with integrated special sound insulation (airborne sound insulation).

Most commercially available thermal insulation panels very often already have good sound and moisture insulating properties right from the start. Stability is one of the criteria when shelving or sanitary appliances are to be fixed on the wall later - then the thickness and surface type must be selected accordingly.

If ceilings are to be insulated to unheated rooms, a vapor barrier layer is necessary, in old buildings is in insulation by plasterboard such a layer sometimes also recommended to prevent mold growth - but that depends on the particular circumstances.

Different prices depending on the design

Common plasterboard with a small thickness and without a specially stabilized core is available in the construction market from as little as € 2.50 each, sometimes even less. So-called laminated plasterboard for thermal insulation are already much more expensive, here you have to estimate around 8 € per plate. Metal profiles are priced approximately between 2 and 5 euros per meter, a distinction is also made between UW and CW profiles. UW profiles are fixed to the wall and ceiling, the CW profiles are the intermediate vertical upright profiles. To determine how many you need, you can easily assume the plate length: the distance between each vertical uprights should always be exactly half a plate length, so at 125 cm plate length exactly 62.5 cm. Wood profiles can be easily made from any wooden slats, the price is here in the hardware store usually after running meters.

And this is how it works - step by step

The straightening of walls and ceilings is no big deal - here, only the batten with screws and dowels attached to the wall or ceiling, the vertical distance should be here as possible half a plate length. With the help of the longest possible spirit level you should make sure that the profile is exactly perpendicular. For very crooked walls, this can be quite tricky under certain circumstances - but it is not technically complicated. However, setting up metal profiles for a curtain wall requires a bit more effort and skill:

First, the UW profiles must be designed according to the desired wall design on the floor and shortened accordingly. It is best to use a tin snips. Of course, planned door openings must also be cut out. UW profiles can be easily screwed to the floor, if this is not possible due to the nature of the floor, it can also be fixed well with silicone. Beware especially with underfloor heating - screwing is of course taboo here.

Then the CW-Ständerprofile be drawn on the existing walls using the spirit level, cut and fixed with at least three knock-in plugs on the existing walls. After that comes the UW-profile for the ceiling, using the spirit level to draw in, align and tighten. Ceilings are almost always screwed together, for houses built a long time ago and "by eye", one should always make sure that in the desired bolting area not someone in earlier times has laid a power cable - that happens more often as you would expect.

When this is done and the ceiling profiles are fixed, the rest of the CW uprights are threaded between the wall and ceiling UW profiles and fastened at the correct distance of one-half the panel width with mating angles. Ideally, you should also screw the plug angle even more.

The lintel profile is then cut to size, leveled exactly with the spirit level and attached to the appropriate CW profiles at the correct height. A fixation with tape is usually sufficient here completely. Thus stands the framework for the partition, and the plasterboard can be fixed.

This happens in any case with joint to wall and floor and definitely aligned with spirit level. Cross joints should be avoided by placing the plates offset. By the way, plates can be shortened by carving the break line with a cutter and a spirit level, and this is exactly where it bends. Normally, this gives a clean break edge on its own, if not, you may help with the knife to smooth the edge. The plate is then fastened with appropriate screws. The screws should be lowered as far as possible to facilitate the filling afterwards. The filling must be carried out very precisely, and the wall should be checked as often as possible during the construction with the spirit level in order to actually obtain completely flat walls. Most of the time this is always a bit of a matter of feeling and a matter of judgment and practice. After the very first wall it is usually very soon better and faster by the hand. But before that, there are a few things left to do:

Of course, before filling and plastering, any installations and insulation material must be laid between the panels. Both can be easily clamped between the profiles. For cables that should come out of the wall, it is best to use a hole saw attachment for the drill to saw an exact hole in the required place in the plasterboard. Corners should also be covered with edge protection profiles before filling. You can easily fix it with a tacker. The connecting joints on the existing walls, on the ceiling and on the floor are best closed with silicone. Although putty is a solution here, but usually not so optimal. Then you can now clean and exactly leveled - do not forget to use a suitable filler for wet rooms. After applying the primer can then be plastered. A tiling is of course also possible instead. Here it becomes very clear how exactly the wall construction was done.

Thus, the intermediate or partition is then already finished.


Video Board: DIY How to Drywall Installation Guide A to Z