Lay floor tiles professionally

Floor tiles are a popular floor covering, which is not surprising. Floor tiles are durable and extremely durable. Provided, of course, that the floor tiles are laid professionally. Below you will find a comprehensive guide to the expert laying of floor tiles.

Explicitly as flooring tiles have long been extremely popular. Not only that floor tiles are extremely robust and resistant, which is why they serve as flooring in the long term. In addition, modern manufacturing techniques allow a magnificent variety of ceramic stoneware, stoneware and porcelain stoneware tiles in a variety of colors, shapes and designs. There are also special mosaic and glass tiles and breathtakingly beautiful natural stone tiles. However, as with all other home and apartment projects, the same applies to floor tiles: the more accurate you perform the preparatory work and then lay the floor tiles, the longer you enjoy using your tile flooring.

Do not neglect the small but important care after laying the floor tiles

But even after laying the floor tiles need care and a certain, albeit low maintenance. In particular, some natural stone tiles and polished porcelain stoneware are necessarily from the laying and then to be impregnated at regular intervals. In addition, there are special white glues especially for glass, mosaic and natural stone tiles, because in addition to glass tiles, natural stone tiles can also be translucent. Accordingly, you should consider in the planning and purchase phase all the peculiarities of the selected floor tiles.

Step-by-step instructions for laying floor tiles

  • possibly blocking reason
  • possibly primer or adhesion promoter
  • possibly leveling or leveling spatula
  • floor tiles
  • Tile adhesive, matched to the tile type
  • Joint compound, tailored to the application area and tile type
  • tile crosses
  • spacing wedges
  • tile silicone
  • drilling machine
  • mixing paddle
  • depending on the tile, glass or ceramic drills
  • Glass or tile cutter
  • parrot pliers
  • Chalk line
  • spirit level
  • rubber hammer
  • Tooth trowel, middle toothing
  • Fug board with hard rubber
  • Rubber gloves for grouting
  • knee pads

1. The general preparation

The surface must be clean and dry. Larger cracks and damage must be leveled with leveling compound or liquid screed. In addition, the ground must not be swinging, so for example directly serve a wooden floor as a tile overlay.

Especially in wet rooms and outdoors, it is appropriate to apply a barrier layer. More and more, liquid plastic prevails, which you can either paint or distribute with a water slide. Then, depending on the substrate, a primer or primer is useful. Highly absorbent soil would remove too much water from the glue, non-absorbent soil would not form a connection.

2. Prepare the floor tile laying

After waiting for the prepared substrate to dry completely, you can begin direct tiling preparation. Preferably, you should always achieve a symmetrical layout. To do this, determine the center of the room with two impact cords that you draw diagonally from one corner to the other. The intersection is the middle.

Now you have to calculate how many rows of tiles you need on the long side and on the wide side to the wall. You may have little or no waste if you place either a tile in the middle (quarter-size in each room quarter) or four tiles around the middle.

3. Lay the floor tiles

Now you can mix the tile adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. Bear in mind with the special adhesives for natural stone tiles that these adhesives have to ripen for a few minutes before being stirred again vigorously before processing.

Now apply as much tile adhesive to the floor as you can effortlessly process within the next 20 to 30 minutes. With the serrated side of the tufts you comb the bridges into the tile adhesive. For floor tiles, the buttering-floating method is preferably used.

To ensure that the floor tiles lie in a uniform adhesive bed, apply adhesive to the back of the tile and comb it across the bars on the substrate. In circular swimming movements push the tile now with feeling in the adhesive bed.

However, the tile is not completely pressed to the ground. Now you can lay all the other tiles up to the wall. To ensure an exact joint, insert a tile cross at each corner of the tile.

4. Cut the floor tiles

The last tile to be cut will be saved until the end, because cutting everything first and then laying it is faster than alternately cutting and laying each individual tile. To cut slots and slots in the tiles, use the drill bit. Drill in the corners of the slot (bear in mind the drill radius), the drill points connect in advance with the glass or tile cutter through a scribed line. With the parrot tongs, you tweak the slit sensitively and with patience.

5. Grouting the floor tiles

In the meantime, the first tiles are already sufficiently dry (with ceramic tiles, natural stones and glass you may have to wait up to 24 hours). This means you can now mix the grout until you get a homogeneous mass.

Now brush the grout with the fug board diagonally into the joints. After grouting, you have to wait until the grout gets a bit firm. It is porous earthy in the right consistency. Now you can wash out the joints with the sponge.

Finally, grout the expansion joint along the edges. First, inject the silicone compound, then peel off with a wooden spatula. Now moisten your finger and smooth out the silicone joint. The water on the finger makes the silicone surface smooth and no silicone adheres to your finger when straightening.

Tips & Tricks

After installation, clean the floor tiles as quickly and intensively as possible. The forming cement curtain is otherwise only to remove with a corresponding cleaner. However, this cleanser not only attacks the cement on the tile, but also in the joint. If you need to work with the Cement Veil Cleaner, try to prevent the solvent from getting on the joints.

The joint width between the joints depends mainly on the size (with ceramic tiles) and on the material (with natural stone tiles smaller joints). The expansion joint should basically be between 0.5 and 1.5 cm. From a room length of 8 m you should consider a circumferential expansion joint of at least 2 cm.

Video Board: Top Five Tips for Rapid Setting Tile Installations