Paint floor tiles professionally


The painting of wall and floor tiles is increasingly becoming a real alternative to tile laying. On the one hand, the effort is significantly lower, and the costs are only a fraction of what the new laying of tiles would cost. The enormous progress in the development of tile coatings completes the possibility of painting floor tiles perfectly. In addition, many ideas can be introduced. Here we explain step by step the painting of floor tiles.

When painting floor tiles is definitely worthwhile

Often the designs of tiles are very closely linked to the "era of construction". Depending on when a property was built, tiles can look quite unsightly. Especially with floor tiles then comes an extreme wear over the years added. Thus, for a long time no real conditions are created to tear out the tiles and relocate them. Because usually the ground is still in order and it is really just about design or worn condition. The painting of floor tiles is then a superior solution. But you may also want to save money to refurbish the space later exclusively.

Modern tile coatings achieve first-class results - if everything fits

First of all, the time required is significantly lower than for floor tile renovation, ie new laying. The costs are noticeably lower anyway. However, there are many opinions from people who have already painted their floor tiles and were not satisfied with it. Most of these floor tiles were already painted years ago. Since then, however, the quality of tile coatings has improved significantly. In the case of recently painted floor tiles, it could also have been insufficiently accurate preparatory work that has produced a poor result. Therefore, we offer here a detailed derivation for the professional painting of floor tiles.

Step-by-step instructions for the professional painting of tiles

  • Tile varnish (basecoat and clearcoat)
  • Haft- and Sperrgrund
  • Leveling filler or tile adhesive
  • joint silicone
  • possibly grout
  • liquid plastic
  • possibly decorative chips
  • Grease and silicone cleaner
  • Foam scooter or lambskin scooter
  • Brush or puff
  • scraper
  • trowel
  • possibly Fugbrett
  • possibly tile sponge
  • silicone syringe
  • wooden spatula

1. Preparation

First of all, the ground, that is the old floor tiles, must be absolutely clean. For this, the floor tiles are treated with grease and silicone cleaner. Then the tiles are checked for damage. If there are several damages, it makes sense to mark them with adhesive tape. Depending on how large the cracks are, you can close them with liquid plastic (small cracks) or leveling putty or flow filler (larger damages).

If entire tiles have to be removed, it is best to fill in the resulting holes with flexible tile adhesive if you do not have a replacement tile handy. If you want to achieve a smooth surface like that of the remaining floor tiles when filling with tile adhesive, it is possible that you remove the surface with fine putty (for example for plasterboard) and smooth.

Then, however, it is particularly important to apply a barrier layer. In general, a barrier primer, especially on floor tiles in bathrooms makes sense. Then the primer is applied after drying.

It may also be advisable to scrape out the joints if you do not want a uniform surface, but want to preserve the tile structure. You can also cut out the silicone of the expansion joints.

2. Painting the floor tiles

Now that the primer has dried according to the manufacturer, you can paint the floor tiles with the first coat of base coat. If you want to decorate decor chips, prepare them with base coat between the first and the second coating pass. Now you can paint the second coat of base coat on the floor tiles.

Immediately after painting, sprinkle the decorative chips according to the manufacturer's specifications. Now let the basecoat dry and harden. Then you can paint the floor tiles with protective clearcoat.

3. Rework after painting the floor tiles (Grouting etc.)

If you want to get the joint optics, you may have removed the grout before the floor tile was painted. Before you can grout new, you must wait until the clear coat is completely dried and cured. Keep in mind that this can take weeks. If you grout too soon, the grout, when incorporated into the joints on the clearcoat, may look like polishing paste and cause the clearcoat to become dull.

When the clear coat has completely hardened, grout the grout diagonally to the joint as it did after laying the tile. Then wash the joints with a wet joint sponge. Finally, inject the silicone into the expansion joint, then smooth it with a wooden spatula and then a wet finger. You will wet your finger because otherwise the silicone will stick to it and you would not be able to pull a smooth, smooth silicone joint.

Tips & Tricks

When choosing tile coatings, pay attention to those that are explicitly suitable for floor tiles. Because floor tiles are claimed by walking much more than wall tiles. Accordingly, there is in particular the clearcoat particularly abrasion and non-slip.

Never paint floor tiles in rental properties without written permission from the landlord. Otherwise, he may make you liable for damages.

There are tile coating systems where you can mix the shades yourself. Make sure that you mix shades so that you can mix them if necessary (same proportions of different colors).

Do not coat the floor tiles if the surface is damaged, so that everything just looks nice again. If there is damage in the ground, they will reappear without intensive renovation.


Video Board: How to Paint Tile Floors with a Stencil