Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal

Renew old joints - refurbish the bathroom

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: renew

Old joints in the bathroom and in the kitchen not only look ugly, but can be really dangerous. If water sloshes through the leaky joints behind the shower tray or mold in the kitchen fouled the joints, are expensive and sometimes harmful consequences in the house.

The replacement and renewal of joints is quite easy - if you have some skill and the right tool.

This guide conveys also laymen understand how to renew joints in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

Silicone joints: the basics

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: silicone

Where different elements abut each other - in this case bathtub and wall - an elastic joint is subjected to considerable stress. Trotdzem she must remain permanently tight.

To be used on silicone joint sealants in the sanitary sector very high standards posed. They must have good processing and sealing properties, and these sealants must also be permanently elastic so that they can absorb movements in the ground without breaking the joint.

For example, one can often observe that joints in the wall-floor transition tear at too early an injunction. This can be prevented only if the grouting in this area takes place after a certain waiting time and - for a lasting success even more important - silicone joint sealants are used with a particularly high elasticity.

For critical trades, such as patios, balconies or bathrooms, a high level of movement is required by joint sealants. Here, silicone joint sealants are used with a particularly high elasticity, so that the joints thus applied remain permanently elastic even under the increased load and can protect the building fabric from damage, for example by penetrating water.

technical requirements

In the development of silicone rubber based sealants special attention to the elongation at break laid, which measured according to DIN 53504 is about 400 to 600%. In addition, a high movement absorption is required so that the above-mentioned use in critical trades, such as terraces and balconies, is possible.

Due to the high temperature fluctuations caused by direct sunlight and frost outside the house the requirements for the joint sealant, which is used in the expansion and expansion joints, enormous. High-grade silicone sealants are therefore developed so that they have a temperature resistance of -60° C to + 180° C and weatherproof and resistant to aging are. Due to the UV resistance, such silicones are also suitable for this application.

For use in the kitchen and in the bathroom is because of the cleaning agents often used there a high chemical resistance of the elastic joint sealant necessary.

In addition, that is Silicone solvent-free and environmentally friendly, so that during the processing and also afterwards no health damages threaten by exhalations.

Silicone in practical use

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: joints

In wet rooms, such as bathrooms, there is an increased risk of mold. Silicone sealants with antifungal agents can reduce this risk.

Are especially common acetate-curing silicone sealants. When crosslinking, so when connecting the molecules together to form an elastic structure, acetic acid is cleaved off - therefore the typical vinegar smell comes from hardening silicone.

The advantage of these acetate-crosslinking systems is one particularly good adhesion on all ceramic coverings in the wall and floor area - in the sealing of joints as a connection to tile coverings, sinks, bathtubs, shower trays, door and window frames as well as when used in expansion joints. Even for grouting glass constructions, high quality silicone can be used. Another advantage of these systems is fast curing and high abrasion resistance.

However, the requirements for silicone sealants are not limited to their mechanical properties. Most sanitary silicones are also fungus and bacteria-inhibiting set. Showers and baths are at least particularly endangered by mold, and the risk of infestation can be significantly reduced by this additional chemical protection. With proper cleaning and care, the desired appearance of the joint remains permanently.

Whether the protection against mold is desired depends on the field of application. In bathrooms, fungicidal sealants will normally be used, but in kitchens, silicones with fungicidal additives should be used everywhere where the sealant comes into contact with drinking water. The reason: Fungicides can be partially washed out by the water.

No problems arise regardless of the field of application in optics: silicone sealants are available in many colors - These include both classic and current sanitary paints as well as sometimes very colorful colors, which can make their own contribution to the design of spaces.

Renew silicon joint step by step

First, you should be clear about what the new fugue should look like, so how wide she gets. It depends not only on visual but also on technical aspects. And of course, this also determines the material requirements.

The necessary joint width for a tight sanitary joint always depends on the nature of the material and the sealant used. Tiles or ceramic parts bordering on the joint may have straight but also irregular edges; they may lie parallel, but may also be installed inaccurately. There are therefore no simple rules of thumb, it is only certain that the visible joint width must be slightly larger than the gap width to be filled.

Most likely about two and a half times the joint gapsuffice. For a gap of 5 mm, this would be 12.5 mm. In the outdoor area or other highly thermally stressed environments should be expected with three to four times. Here, with a 5 mm gap, a joint width of about 20 mm would suffice. This is sufficient to compensate for thermal deformations and permanently seal the joint.

Renewing joints is also easy based on the previous joint. One or two millimeters in addition can not hurt, as silicone shrinks a little over the years. However, if the old gap has broken off over longer distances and gaps have formed to the adjacent material, you should work much more generously for safety's sake.

Material and tools

  • Fugenhai
  • silicone
  • Mold remover
  • Sponge or rag
  • masking tape
  • caulking gun
  • Fugenglätter
  • rubber gloves
  • sanitary silicone

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: sanitary

With the sharp blade of Fugenhais as much of the old silicone joint is removed as possible. Do not use too much force, otherwise you may injure yourself while slipping.

Remove silicone joints and clean joints

To the Remove the old silicone is a so-called Fugenhai with changeable, fixed blade made of stainless steel very good. With the pointed end of the blade, first pierce the silicone and then cut the silicone compound off the adjacent surfaces and out of the joint.

Work here carefully and in short stages, because the more silicone you remove in this step and the fewer residues stick, the less rework will be made later - overall, well-considered procedure saves time.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: renew

The silicone remover is applied from the cartridge according to instructions. Usually, it can be used to dissolve layers up to 2 mm thick.

Due to its sharpness, the shark cuts smoothly into the sealant. If the work becomes more cumbersome, it may be due to a blunt blade. Then do not just exercise more pressure, because that only increases the risk of injury. A blunt blade should be replaced.

Without any leftovers, in many cases you will not be able to remove the old silicone in this way. Then you help with a chemical silicone remover to. It is applied to the remainder of the sealant according to the manufacturer's instructions and then also acts according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: joints

Silicone removers are also available in small containers - practical, if only the sealing of a single washbasin is to be renewed.

Before applying, you can apply the substrate on both sides of the old silicone joint Mask off with a crepe. This prevents adjacent joints from being loosened, which should not be renewed. In addition, then no dissolved silicone can be accidentally smeared in the environment.

After the exposure time, the dissolved residues and residues of the remover thoroughly removed with a sponge or rag. If you have masked the joint, remove the masking tape first.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: joints

After soaking, wipe the loosened silicone remnants and remover residues thoroughly with a sponge or rag off the joints.

Now inspect the cleaned joint thoroughly again. Discover mold, then it must be removed before you re-spray the joint. For this purpose, numerous products are available in the assortment of DIY stores. When buying a mildew remover, make sure that it is compatible with the treated surfaces and apply it exactly to the manufacturer's specifications.

It's best to work with it with the window open with household gloves and a surgical mask.

Re-inject and smooth silicone joints

Especially then, when you handle silicone sealants for the first time, You can tape the joint back to the intended width with the artist's tape.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: joints

Spray the joint evenly and in one go. For the inexperienced it can be easier to work with such a dispenser than with the caulking gun.

Now prepare the sealant cartridge. It is cut open, then unscrewed an unused spout. Then insert the cartridge into the caulking gun and trim the spout at an angle. How far the opening has to be depends on the width of the joint. In most cases, an opening of 2 to 3 mm should be enough - you can still cut later if necessary.

The trigger lever of the caulking gun is now pressed a few times until a resistance is felt. Now you can spray out the joint. This should evenly and if possible in one go happen. For wide joints, you can also apply the silicone compound in tight, close-fitting loops. This is sometimes easier than evenly spraying a thick strand.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: renew

The classic method is the ejection with the caulking gun. Also work with it evenly without settling all at once.

If you have to drop off the cartridge once in a while, press the small release lever on the handle. Otherwise, there is still pressure on the cartridge, and the silicone may spill into the environment in an uncontrolled manner.

Once the joint has been sprayed out, it is smoothed. So that as little silicone as possible adheres to the tool used, you can use the silicone wet with a release agent. For example, a weak detergent solution, which is sprayed with the pump bottle, is suitable for this purpose.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: joints

Using a joint straightener, pull the silicone off evenly and in one go. If necessary, you can use a weak detergent solution as a release agent.

However, this should only be done if the sealant actually works evenly and in sufficient quantity was introduced, because the release agent also makes it much more difficult to supplement in case of need still silicone at flaws.

Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal: renew

Here's what's close up: Be sure to keep the smoother at the same angle to the joint as you peel it off.

For smoothing, it is best to use one Joint straightener made of elastic plastic. With it, you remove the joint evenly and absorb excess sealant. The result is most beautiful when you smooth the joint without settling in one go. Also, be sure to keep the trowel always at the same angle. If silicone adheres to the smoother, you can simply wipe it off with a dry cloth.

Among do-it-yourselfers The method of smoothing a silicone joint with the detergent-wetted finger is also quite popular. But this will rarely bring as accurate results as working with the plastic straightener, and not everyone wants to have residual sealant on their fingers. The few euros for a set with several leaves are well spent money.

After completing the work you have to Allow the silicone to cure, before the joint can be loaded or come into contact with water. References to this can be found on the cartridge. You can also trust your nose: as long as the sealant exudes its typical smell, it is not fully loadable.

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Video Board: How To Remove And Apply Silicone To A Bathtub