Install a gutter professionally


Different demands can be made on gutters, correspondingly large is the range of different gutter materials and fastening systems. But even with the gutters themselves, there are different systems after connecting. In the following, we will not only introduce you to these, you will also receive detailed instructions for mounting your gutter.

The gutter material is based on your claim

The primary task of a gutter is to divert the rain and melt water from roofs. In addition, either no or very high demands are placed on the visual impact of gutters.

Material for gutters
  • Copper and brass
  • aluminum
  • sheet steel
  • plastic
Connection techniques for gutters
  • they are glued together
  • they are put together
  • they are soldered together

The installation instructions for gutters made of plastic

In our assembly instructions we refer to plastic gutters for plugging. In principle, however, the other two systems are also fastened, except that you then overlap the gutters according to the manufacturer's instructions and then glue or solder them.

Fixing systems for the gutter irons

With the Rinneisen there are also different attachment variants. For smaller gutters, for example at garages, carports or garden sheds, there are gutter irons that you screw to a longitudinal battens. In order to achieve a necessary channel gradient, the loosely screwed gutter irons can then be changed in height.

The installation of a gutter is always similar

This fastening technique is very well suited for home improvement workers who have not been able to collect so many crafting experiences so far. In our guide to mounting a gutter, we describe the installation of otherwise common gutter iron, which is quasi inserted into the roof battens. In addition, the assembly of the downpipe is the same for all connection systems.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gutter

  • Gutter System
  • Gutter piece for the downpipe
  • gutter brackets
  • Elbow pipes for the downpipe
  • downspout
  • Clamping and Losring
  • possibly leaf grilles
  • Screws or nails for the gutter irons
  • crowbar
  • hammer
  • Cordless Screwdriver
  • fine-toothed iron saw (also with plastic gutters)
  • spirit level
  • Chalk line in the double gutter length (total)
  • Easel, ladder or scaffolding
  • suitable tool for gutters for gluing or soldering

1. Preparation

Measure the distance of the protrusion of the first row of roof tiles to the first roof battens. You need this distance, because the gutters should later reach about one-third below the roof tiles.

Now remove the first row of tiles (the bottom one). Either slide it up over the roof battens or lift up the second tile row and pull down.

2. Fit the gutter irons

The first gutter iron is attached at the height of the outer roof tiles. With a saw or with a hammer and chisel, you can hammer a groove into the roof batten, which corresponds in width and thickness to the dimensions of the gutter iron.

The gutter bar must be flush with the top of the bar, then either screwed or fastened with nails. Note the distance that the gutter will later be about one-third lower than the tile. After these measures turn the Rinneisen. Now stretch the chalk line over the entire length over which the gutter is to be mounted.

Take the chalk line twice. The top chop line is stretched at the top of the first gutter where you bent it. The lower chalk line is stretched to the level of the bow's low point. Move the chalk line down along the entire roof length in order to achieve the required slope for the later gutter.

As a rule of thumb, a slope of 3 to 7 mm per meter, so on 10 m roof length that would be 3 to 7 cm. The gutter irons now mount every 50 to 100 cm and bend the chalk line accordingly. Make sure that the last gutter iron is mounted at the height of the Dachstein.

3. Fit the gutter

Now you can mount the individual gutter parts. The plastic channels are connected with a plug connection. Note here, but also when cutting the gutters when soldered or glued connection, exactly the specifications of the gutter manufacturer (on impact or overlapping cut). For sawing the gutters, you can also use a fine-toothed iron saw for plastic.

4. Mount the downpipe

Now insert the first downpipe bend onto the gutter piece. Manually set the second elbow tube to the correct distance from the wall (4 to 5 cm) and measure the distance for the connection tube, if needed.

Now you have to fix the fixed and loose clamps in the wall. Depending on how high the wall is, is at the top (about 10 cm after the downpipe), in the middle and at the end of the downpipe each a clamp.

With a clamp distance of 2 to 2.5 m and with high house walls, the distances for the Losschellen arise in between. For small walls use only clamped at the top and bottom of the downpipe and in the middle a Losschelle.

5. The leaf grid

Depending on which modular lattice system you have decided on, insert it in the gutter according to the manufacturer's instructions.

6. Thesis

Now you can reload the last row of roof tiles that you removed earlier.

Tips & Tricks

Always burr clean cut plastic downpipes and gutters before connecting them together.

You can lead the downpipe to a drainage shaft, a sewer or a rain catch bin. In any case, the leaf grille in the gutter is important, because even the downpipe can clog.


Video Board: Gutter Installation Full Length Video by Tomlinson-Cannon