Lay laminate professionally yourself

Thanks to modern manufacturing processes, laminate is a real alternative to the more expensive parquet floor. However, laminate, which offers many benefits, can not be installed anywhere parquet is used. With the right tool and the following instructions, laminate laying is quick and easy.

General information about laying laminate flooring

Although it can be repeatedly heard that parquet looks nobler and more natural than laminate. For a modern laminate flooring is much more robust. If, however, scratches in laminate floors, they can not be renovated as parquet. In addition, laminate elements may be laid only conditionally in wet rooms such as bathrooms, as they swell in contrast to the parquet wood when they get wet: they are usually made of wood chipboard.

But the laminate manufacturers have long been responsive to the moisture problem, so there is no problem, at least in other critical areas such as the kitchen. So it should definitely find a laminate floor use, which is impregnated accordingly. Tongue and groove panels are glued, click systems usually only plugged.

Laminate on underfloor heating

The argument that glued laminate better insulates the footfall sound is no longer relevant because, in addition to a vapor and moisture barrier, sound insulation can also be laid under the laminate. Only the question remains with underfloor heating. Basically, laminate flooring can be laid on underfloor heating but only at temperatures below 26 to 28 degrees.

The manufacturer provides the concrete information as well as the general release of the floor covering for underfloor heating systems. It should be kept in mind that electric heating systems are warmer than those with water. In addition, it should be clear that the laminate thermal resistance (WDW) is at a relatively high 0.07 to 0.15 m2 K / W and also have footfall sound insulation and vapor barrier WDW. Therefore, anyway only underfloor heating in question, which serve as additional heating.

  • laminate
  • spacing wedges
  • Steam and moisture barrier (PE foil 0.2 cm)
  • Glue for the plastic film
  • sound insulation
  • Inside and outside corners, rosettes for heating pipes
  • skirting
  • if necessary, smoothing filler
  • Glue (if the laminate is to be glued)
  • Rubber mallet and iron hammer medium and heavy
  • Batwood or block
  • Saw (miter and chop saw or jigsaw) and miter box
  • Ruler or string, mason pencil, tape measure and folding rule
  • Pull and hoist
  • Straps with tensioner and special laminate swing arms
  • Drilling machine with wood and circle drills (for heating pipes)
  • spatula
  • Brooms and vacuum cleaners
  • laminate cutter
  • bevel
  • Laminateinpasser

1) Preparation

The subfloor must be completely dry and clean. Carpet residue and the like can be removed with a spatula. Deep bumps (3 - 4 mm) should be leveled with a smoothing scraper. The spatula must then absolutely dry out completely. The subsoil itself should be swept and sucked. On carpets may not be laid, on glued plastic floors already.

2) Lay the vapor barrier and impact sound insulation

The PE film is simply rolled out and should overlap at least 20 cm from one web to the next. At the overlaps, the webs are glued together. The rolling direction does not matter. Not so with the sound insulation, which is laid in the later longitudinal direction of the laminate panels. The individual tracks are laid on each other to stop. The moisture barrier is used in floor-cold rooms.

3) Consider expansion joints

Laminate works like any wooden floor and is therefore laid floating. Therefore, an expansion joint must also be considered on walls, pillars and pipes. To do this, use the spacers and wedges. The wedges are only on one face. Use the pull iron to knock the laminate panels against the spacers from the opposite end. Even if the distance on the free side of panel to panel is slightly different, that's okay, because that's the baseboard later. The holes for heating pipes should be about 3 cm wider, door frames are cut to subsequent laminate height.

4) Lay the laminate - the first panel

With the first laminate panel, the feathers are cut clean and laid on the wall side. Of course, the panel also needs to be cut to length. Basically, professional floor publishers always start on the left side. With hammer, baton and pull iron, the first row is now first tapped lengthwise and then crosswise. Do not forget the distance wedges on the walls before.

5) The second and all other panels: pay attention to the offset

Use angle and pencil to mark the cut length of the laminate panel. For straight rooms, the section is always the same length. In this case, you can move the section as an offset. The offset should be at least 40 cm. The offset not only serves a better look, it makes the laminate later stable. If the walls are slanted and the boards are cut differently, you must consider the additional need for offset. If your cut edge is not really clean, always lay the actual front edges in the room (the machine-cut ends of the purchased laminate). But you can also misplace the offsets for different lengths if you prefer a so-called "wild bandage".

6a) If you stick with glue

If the laminate has tongue and groove, but no click system, from the 5th row, generously coat the feathers with glue. The first four panels are laid dry. The glue may be squeezed slightly from the joint when knocking in the panels. This ensures that no moisture can penetrate later. Now glue three to four rows, then wait for the glue to dry out. The remaining rows can be processed later in one go.

6b) Pure click systems

For click systems, please follow the instructions of the manufacturer. If a laminate panel snaps into the last, hammer in the panel lengthways, then crosswise. Pay close attention to possible tilting and fix it with the rubber mallet. Otherwise, these wedges are transferred to the next panel.

7) The notorious last floorboard

The last laminate floorboard is not as heavy as expected. Measure the distance between wall and penultimate panel at several positions (outside left, center, outside right, for example) and transfer it with 10 to 20 mm less on the last floorboard. With a Laminateinpasser the distance is even easier to transfer to the floorboard - follow the instructions for use.

Tips & Tricks

Before laying:
The laminate should be stored for 48 hours in the room where it is later laid so that it can acclimatize (adaptation to the given humidity). The humidity must never exceed 70 percent.

Laying direction after incident light:
Basically, laminate and parquet are laid lengthways for optical reasons. With two windows, the larger or lighter window is selected.

Laying direction according to room layout:
Always across the longer side, because the room otherwise works even longer. The same applies of course to long corridors and planks.

Screed humidity:
For new buildings, the residual moisture of the screed must be taken into account. With a CM measuring device, there is clarity about the moisture levels that can not be exceeded: at most 2.0 CM percent for cement screed (with underfloor heating 1.5 CM percent) and no more than 0.5 CM percent for anhydrite screed (with underfloor heating 0.3 CM Percent). Otherwise, the laminate floor swells or throws up bowls. However, the more expensive Darr test is more accurate than the CM moisture test. In most cases it is too wet to be blamed on a swelling laminate.

Video Board: How To Install Laminate Plank Flooring