Lay linoleum - step by step instructions

Even though linoleum was developed by a chemist in England in 1860, it is a fairly natural material and therefore has some advantages over the usual PVC. But first comes the laying of the linoleum.

This makes some demands on the accuracy of the handyman because of its ingredients jute fabric, cork powder and linseed oil. However, if the floor has been carefully laid, it lasts a lifetime and, in contrast to the plastic floor, does not emit any softeners and the like into the room air.

Pros and cons of linoleum

Linoleum should always be glued over the entire surface, because penetrating water, eg. in the bathroom, the linoleum can swell up. Then it ripples and never gets completely smooth again after drying. Even if you want to lay the linoleum in a pure living room, such as the bedroom, you should still resort to the full-surface bonding.

In addition, the joints between the sheets of linoleum must be welded. Therefore, it is always useful to raise the linoleum on the walls as a baseboard at the same time. So you do not need to seal the outside of the floor, the entire edges and has at the same time a skirting in soil color, which does not allow any moisture to penetrate.

Anyone who does not trust the rather fiddly and difficult work of the raised baseboards does not have to do without a linoleum floor. There are closing systems in the trade, which are welded after laying the floor with this and relatively easy to install.

Prepare underground

The substrate must be absolutely smooth, firm and clean when laying linoleum on it. Any crack or bump will later be visible on the finished floor. Therefore, not every surface is suitable for this high-quality floor covering.

Which substrates are suitable?

Best suited is a good, crack-free screed floor. If in doubt, you can sand it down again to really eliminate any bumps. If the screed has cracks, they must first be closed. Larger bumps should be leveled with a smoothing filler, which runs itself.

An old tile floor should either be removed or completely filled with a leveling compound or an insulating compound. In the same way it is necessary for old wooden planks to produce a flat surface. Which mass to use, the substrate and the roughness must decide. For stone or tiles, a self-leveling leveling filler can also be used.

What is insulating material necessary for?

If the room is not basemented, a thin layer of insulating compound should be applied to prevent moisture from rising. The insulating compound performs the same function as the PE film in a laminate. Therefore, in a linoleum laminate, the so-called click linoleum, PE film should be designed.

Lay linoleum on an old wooden floor

A wooden floor, which looks smooth and level at first glance, is still very problematic on a sensitive floor like linoleum, because after a few months you will see the joints between the floorboards and the floor will work. Thus, the surface under the linoleum never really comes to rest, which has an effect on the durability, since the adhesive will sooner or later loosen.

It may be better to unscrew chipboards on the floor and in addition to seal the joints in the panels with grout. As the panels are screwed, the floor can barely work and the linoleum lies perfectly.

Step by step to the linoleum floor

For a better overview we have subdivided the instructions in A - linoleum of the role [linoleum floor coverings] and B - click linoleum. Do not worry, you do not have to buy all the tools for the installation yourself, many things can be borrowed at hardware stores.

A - Linoleum from the roll

  • linoleum
  • possibly wall connection system for skirting boards
  • sweatband
  • Glue for linoleum [linoleum glue]
  • Insulating compound / filler (as required for the preparation of the substrate)
  • Grooving machine
  • Hand welder / hot air blower with rapid welding nozzle
  • Anlegeschiene
  • barker
  • Carpet knife / hook blade
  • Butcher / quarter moon knife with welding carriage
  • wall bevel
  • behind roller
  • Ground roller (about 50 kilos)
  • Toothpick fine
  • pencil
  • ruler

A + B 1. Prepare material and tools

Both the linoleum and the click linoleum must first rest in the affected room for at least 24 hours to acclimatize. For this you should heat the room as it is usual in this room.

A 2. Spread out the rolls loosely

Depending on how you want to design the wall transitions, you must additionally let the linoleum stand up about 5 to 10 centimeters on the wall. First, lay out the roles loosely and cut with the appropriate supernatant webs from it.

The webs must always be laid out and used in the same direction. You should therefore go back to the original wall with the roller to lay the next track. Let the laps overlap by about two centimeters.

Do not forget: You will also need the same overhang on the side walls as at the end. It is best to first tear the material with a trapeze or a utility knife and then cut with the hook blade.

A 3. Use only special adhesives

To prevent the linoleum from being too moist during the drying phase, a special adhesive should be used which sets quickly. However, this has the consequence that you have to work quite quickly.

A 4. Pre-cut wall projections and heater niches

You can perfectly mark the distances with the wall-cut. Before cutting, you should still look twice, if the distances are correct and you still have enough overhang.

If you are sure that the webs are all right and you have enough material everywhere, you can start gluing. The furthest away from the door is the first choice. Just stack the unneeded webs in front of the door in sequence, then they will not be smeared with glue ahead of time.

A 5. Stick the first web and roll

Start again at the exit wall by painting the floor. To do this, use a fine toothed spatula. The teeth that should be used are mostly indicated by the adhesive manufacturers. First, about half the distance is provided with adhesive.

Place the linoleum ribbon in the damp glue bed and press it into place. Now beat over half of which there is still no glue and paint in the remaining stretch with glue. Then the rest of the web is pressed onto the adhesive bed.

If glue reaches the top somewhere, it should be removed immediately with a rag. After gluing, each individual web is first cross-rolled and then longitudinally rolled with a roller weighing about 50 kilograms.

A 6. Glue and roll on further webs

If any adhesive has leaked under the previous web, or if you apply too much, remove this old adhesive cleanly before proceeding to the next web.

Each additional course is created with a projection of almost two centimeters to the previous one. When gluing, follow the same procedure as described under A 5. However, you must be careful that no glue gets on the previous web.

A 7. Cut the overhang and roll the seam

The cleanest is the cut, if you first perform an air or pre-cut with a scriber. Take your time and cut the tracks carefully and straight. With the hand roller, the seam is then pressed firmly.

A 8. Lift the seam with the joint cutter

Approximately 24 hours after bonding, the seam can be milled out. However, please pay particular attention to the information provided by the adhesive manufacturer.

Set the jointer to a depth of about 2.5 millimeters and use a width of about three millimeters. If the manufacturer [linoleum manufacturer] provides different values, you should of course also take this into account. If you are not sure whether you can mow a straight joint, you should use a batten for docking.

A 9. Bring the fusible wire into the joint

You do not have to buy a hand welder, a hot air blower with a corresponding quick-welding nozzle brings the same result. He has to reach 350 degrees easily. Work quickly and push the plastic welding wire carefully while still warm for the first time with the weld sledge.

A 10. Overcast the fusible wire

Depending on what is more, you can use instead of the quarter moon knife with the weld sledge and a Mozart repeller. For the inexperienced, the kicker may be easier to handle, as it will not easily cause damage to the new linoleum.

If the plastic wire has become cold after about 20 minutes, it is discarded and reworked clean.

A 11. Overcast the edges or baseboard

Depending on the baseboard solution, you should now either seal the edges with welding wire or just attach the appropriate wall connection system according to the manufacturer's recommendations. If you are laying linoleum for the first time, the version of the wall connection system is certainly easier, as the strips do not have to be bent at a 90-degree angle to the wall.

B - click linoleum

  • Click linoleum
  • PE film
  • Adhesive tape / Aluklebeband
  • sound insulation
  • Jig saw / table saw
  • bat
  • crowbar
  • Rubber / mallet
  • wedges
  • pencil
  • ruler

B 2. Lay out the PE foil and impact sound in the room

After the click linoleum has rested in the room long enough, as described under A + B 1., the PE foil can be laid with a wall overhang that is more than five centimeters high. For a linoleum covering, it should be well sealed with aluminum tape.

Before attaching the baseboards, you should also tap the wall overhang cleanly. If you are already doing this work, you may have spots of foil behind that protrude beyond the baseboard.

Now, the impact sound insulation is designed in the room. However, many varieties of Clicklinoleum already have their own layer of impact sound. Then this step will of course be omitted.

B 3. Lay the first row of Clicklinoleum

Any unevenness of the wall must be compensated in the first row of Clicklinoleum [linoleum wood optics click]. The row is secured with spacer wedges on all three sides. The edge piece should never be shorter than about 40 centimeters with a click linoleum, so it does not tip over.

B 4. Lay out the following rows in the room

The following rows are also secured to the sides with distance wedges against slipping. It is always first clicked on the long side of the panels and carefully chopped with the bats. Only then is the next panel clicked in laterally.

B 5. Carefully adjust last row

In the last row, any major unevenness of the wall must be transferred to the panels again, so that the Clicklinoleum does not squeak later.

You have noticed, of course, that click linoleum [linoleum laminate look] is by far not the same as a carefully and waterproof linoleum laid from the roll. For wet rooms, the floating installation of this Clicklinoleums rather not suitable. However, some manufacturers offer variants of this, which must be laid with glue and are more suitable for wet rooms.

Video Board: How to lay sheet vinyl flooring