To put a lintel

Especially in old houses or former farm buildings, it happens again and again that a door will be moved. With the door then but also the lintel must be moved. To a certain extent, an experienced, skilled DIY enthusiast can do that himself. Below you will find tips.

Please only perform if you have experience

We would like to point out that this is not a guide to moving from a lintel. For small, non-load-bearing walls, an experienced handyman can put a lintel on his own, but this is where the difficulties begin.

If you do not recognize a load-bearing wall, have a specialist company carry out the work. In addition, pipes and pipes can be laid. The following information is more likely to accompany the work of a contracted specialist company.

The construction of the lintel

They change the entire statics by moving the door. In addition, the ceiling and floor, possibly carrier and possibly also the broken light must be supported temporarily and professionally. In addition, a fall can not simply be set in concrete. This may require the calculation of a structural engineer! The following structure may be necessary (from bottom to top):

  • Concrete pressure pad (possibly)
  • In stock
  • cleat

Already when selecting the supervisor you need to know exactly what you need. They are made of brick and concrete or one piece of brick. In some cases (usually load-bearing wall), two overlays are installed side by side.

Lintel - temporary support

First, the temporary support is made. Make sure that the floor and the ceiling are suitable for supporting. If necessary, be placed with wooden planks and then the steel columns in between.

Moving from the lintel (non-load-bearing wall, narrow door width)

If it is a small, definitely not bearing wall, you may be able to move the lintel yourself. To do this, first prepare the temporary substructure of the ceiling and floor, then carefully start to expose the masonry from the plaster - even above the old fall.

Then the mortar bed is also carefully exposed, so that the cover can be taken out. Now the temporary substructure for the masonry can be made, as far as necessary. Alternatively, with two coaters, one can always be offset and then maintained until the mortar has set for the new coaters.

The temporary wall substructure

But it can be done after removing the first supervisor masonry support. A beam is inserted and supported with steel columns. Then the second stirrer can be removed, removed and staggered.

Enlarge the light, move the soffit

Now, the door opening must be increased or offset according to the dimensions. This may mean that you have to widen the wall on one side while it is partially broken out or cut out on the other side.

Install overlap

To do this, you have to expose a total of about 20 to 30 cm laterally (depending on the width). Each brick must be individually and gently knocked out or worked out with the chisel. Now the supports are installed. The new coaters then come to a mortar bed about three centimeters high.

Tips & Tricks

Later, then the door revealing must be plastered. You can use the linked instructions.

Video Board: How To Install a Lintel to Create a New Doorway in an Existing Block Wall