Natural stone wall wall - How it works

While other materials suffer from the weather caused by rain and snow, storms and frost and more or less large amounts of dirt, the natural stone is highly resistant to it. It is sturdy and with thorough workmanship and a carefully designed joint pattern, it is an architectural highlight of any garden and property design. Learn how to build a natural stone wall on your own.

How is a natural stone wall built in-house?

The material natural stone, regardless of which type of rock, has a considerable weight, on which the entire structural procedure must be based. Again and again, a concrete substructure of twenty centimeters or even the embedding in a gravel bed is considered sufficient in various guidebooks.
Be careful if you want to build a natural stone wall. If you want to avoid that your natural stone wall cracks sooner or later due to subsidence and thus becomes unstable, you generally need a frost-free concrete foundation of eighty centimeters deep. In a masonry stone wall without a solid foundation such cracks would be irreparable and would occur again. A drywall in the gravel bed would still be acceptable, but settlements would also displace the structure and damage plantings.

Step 1: excavating and concreting

First, excavate these foundation trenches. The foundation should be about 5cm wider than your natural stone wall. With leaning walls, you orient yourself by the thickness of your stone material. For freestanding walls, however, you must add this 5cm on both sides. In addition, a free-standing natural stone wall should taper upwards by about ten percent per meter in height. If your one-meter-high freestanding wall on your crown is 40cm wide, you'll need a 48cm (2 × 10 percent of 40cm) of foot at its base. The foundation must be 58cm wide and 80cm deep.
This considerable amount of work you do preferably with an excavator. Then cover the top of the foundation on both sides and concreting, preferably with earth-moist ready-mixed concrete. If the workflow allows it, work into the surface of the foundation already the first layer of natural stone.

Step 2a: the solid walling

Natural stone has no flat surfaces such as bricks, which can be walled along a chalk line. Therefore, it is very difficult not to get out of the wall when it comes to walls. However, a natural stone wall in distress can not be corrected.
For this reason, especially for freestanding stone walls, create a stable shuttering formwork in which you can process two layers of natural stone on top of each other. Several days must pass between the operations until the solidly bricked natural stone has entered into a permanent bond with the mortar. Pay attention to the angle of the rejuvenation. You therefore have to set up the formwork with each new operation.
If your freestanding wall is wider than two natural stones, fill the remaining interior with coarse gravel that you previously mixed in the concrete mixer with a lean concrete.
When you have reached the final height of your wall, you process the most beautiful natural stones as the final surface.

Step 2b: the leaning wall in dry installation

Build the lowest layer of your natural stone wall exactly as described for the free-standing wall. In damp soils you can see between the wall and the slope a drainage of 100 drainage pipe. Now fill in the joints with loamy sand in each row of stones. To knock on the stones, use a rubber mallet. At the same time, however, make the desired planting with succulents or rock garden plants. The remaining gap between the wall and the slope is filled with gravel or gravel, which you can easily compact. At the upper end, the backfilling takes place with approx. 20cm topsoil, in which you plant the mural crown with overhanging creeping plants.