Concrete the new floor on your own

Concreteing the worn floor in your own home is no big deal for passionate DIY enthusiasts. The more carefully the soil is prepared, the better and longer the concrete will keep behind. And: Proper insulation ensures incidentally later for manageable heating costs.

Especially with older houses, sometime a complete renovation will be necessary. Maybe the house should be extended with an extension or the long planned garage should finally be built. Concrete floor is also often on the rehabilitation plan and means in principle nothing else than to create a foundation on which later the desired floor covering will find its place. More precisely one Slab foundation over the entire room area, which naturally requires a certain organizational preparation.

Plan preparation work carefully

First of all, a good deal of muscle power is needed, for example, when it comes to the new gazebo or you want to concretise a new floor, which will later be used for the garden terrace. A pit needs to be made, and how deep that must be exactly depends on the intended use. For a garden shed one lies with one Shaft depth of 15 to 20 cm precisely. For load-bearing buildings, it is necessary to dig much deeper (80 cm with the aim of frost protection). At all Pages need about 10 to 15 cm attributed to the place, the later the shuttering needs.

Concrete further work steps on the floor

  • Fill in the ballast as the lower filling layer and tramp down;
  • Boarding the entire pit and align with the spirit level (take into account the slope of two to three percent in the case of terraces to drain rainwater);
  • insulation on the compacted gravel apply (duty in inhabited buildings!);
  • Depending on the intended use and later loading of the concrete floor, safety becomes an important factor reinforcement incorporated on the entire surface;

Mortar buckets, concrete mixers or precast concrete?

Optimal, because it saves power and time, would be ready-mixed concretewhich allows rapid work to concretes in the floor. When filling in no cavities or air bubbles may occur, which would later go to the statics. It helps to stab into the concrete several times over the entire surface with a spade. Then it goes with Handstampers or a vibrating machine to compact of the concrete. From the sides and if possible together with a helper, the concrete surface is now neatly pulled smoothly with a sturdy puller board. The now concreted floor should not be entered if possible.

So that the concrete floor lasts longer later

Even if no rain clouds are in sight, the entire concrete surface is now completely covered with a tarpaulin. This simple protection against wind and weather prevents too rapid drying of the concrete, which would otherwise easily lead to cracking on the surface after a short time. The wooden formwork can be completely dismantled after just one day. After the work to the floor concrete, give now the concrete still about three days time, then the tarpaulin may also be removed. Full curing and Drying usually takes three to four weeksin which pressure loads on the concrete slab are avoided as much as possible.

Tips & Tricks

When mixing the concrete, water should only be added in a balanced proportion. After the puller should be no water on the surface settle, as otherwise it comes to unwanted "segregation", which can adversely affect the strength of the concrete.

Video Board: How to Pour a Concrete Slab for Beginners DIY