Paving stones are self-made - plaster and seal

Grout with grout

Paving stones are self-made - plaster and seal: self-made

On heavily used paths, the hotel's own terrace or the garage driveway, a natural stone pavement simply looks better than a simple tar surface. Disadvantages of paving, however, are the joints: If these consist only of sand, they can easily be overgrown by weeds and washed out by heavy rainfall or run-off water. Firm joints are therefore a good solution: They connect the stones firmly together, do not overgrow and are nevertheless permeable to water. A surface seal does not take place. This article shows how to use solid joints for paving properly.

Plaster with firm joints

Plaster is laid according to many different methods, planned and carried out by experts depending on the place of use. However, all these methods have in common that a good plaster needs a good foundation. In the following sketch is the typical Construction of a durable, frost-resistant plaster shown.

Very important for building a good and even plaster an absolutely flat surface, which is slightly inclined in the direction of the water drainage. On the leveled ground, a layer of gravel or gravel is first applied, which must be very permeable to water and ensures good drainage. Any backwater under the pavement can lead to uplift and cracking during frost. Above the antifreeze layer, a layer of gravel is applied, which serves as cushioning and packing layer of the pavement. This is covered with a layer of fine gravel or grit, the so-called base layer. It absorbs loads on the plaster and ensures a secure hold of the individual stones. The actual plaster is then laid in the sand bed - only then it goes to the paving stones grouting with plaster grout.

As the laying in detail our article clarifies terrace with concrete slabs and paving stones. Here we mainly treat grouting with solid plaster mortar.

Water permeable or impermeable to water?

Paving stones are self-made - plaster and seal: seal

Paving joint mortar is available in water-permeable and water-impermeable variants. In the course of the generally progressive surface sealing you should on your own property, also because of the incurred surface water costs, for water-permeable joint material when laying paving stones and natural stone slabs decide. Processing is very similar in both cases. It should be noted, however, that water-permeable plaster grout mortar is usually a bit more expensive and must set longer to reach full load capacity.


  • Cement mixer (free fall mixer)
  • Water hose with spray or fan nozzle
  • squeegee
  • broom
  • gloves
  • safety goggles


The paved area must First thoroughly cleaned with the broom become. Then the mortar is mixed, in the case of water-permeable pavement joint mortars this is usually based on epoxy resin. The mortar is mixed together with the binder added in an additional container and some water in the cement mixer - about ten minutes of mixing time should be used for a homogeneous consistency. After mixing, the mortar must mature for two minutes and then thoroughly mixed again.

Paving stones grout with synthetic resin grout

The stone surface is first wetted thoroughly with the garden hose. Then the mortar is distributed and pressed with the rubber slider in the individual cracks. The joint depth should be at least 30 millimeters, the joint width at least five millimeters. After incorporating the jointing material, the mortar must first set for 20 minutes, then the excess material is swept off with a broom. In this case, no residues should get into the open joints. The finished area must Protected from moisture for at least 12 hours they are passable after about a week.

Processing of impermeable plaster joint mortar

The processing of impermeable paving grout is almost identical to the processing of its water-permeable counterpart. The impermeable mortar is only loadable earlier - already after one day - and is rinsed with water instead of being cleaned with a broom.

When using impermeable grout is the slope of the area is particularly important so that rainwater can drain away - a drainage at the end of the paved area is also necessary.

Similar sites

  • Lay outdoor tiles and patio tiles
  • Combine floor covering and door frame correctly
  • Renew joints - remove silicone joints and sanitary joints yourself and re-seal
  • Terrace with concrete slabs and paving stones
  • Lay tiles correctly
  • Lay tile on tile
  • Tile grout - instructions
  • Grout mortar - find the right tile grout
  • Make a mosaic and do it yourself
  • Clean joints in the bathroom and garden properly
  • Seal screed - instructions
  • Repair patio tiles and repair patio tiles
  • Change a single tile
  • Tile the terrace
  • Clean paving stone

Video Board: How to Make a Rubber Mold to Cast Concrete Pavers/Stepping Stones