Install a rain gutter professionally

The gutter forms the end of the roof at the eaves and dissipates rainwater and meltwater. The installation of a gutter can be made easily by skilled home improvement. Therefore, we offer below a corresponding installation instructions including numerous valuable tips.

Gutters have a high utility value

In addition to their task of receiving and draining the water from a roof, gutters also protect the plaster and the house facade. The gutter protrudes about two-thirds over the eaves, the eaves. It also protects the façade against rain. In addition, many people use the rainwater also for watering in their garden. Rain gutters thus fulfill numerous useful tasks.

Systems for gutter irons

The gutter is mounted on the so-called gutter irons. Conventional gutter irons are inserted into the first rafters and then bent to the required length. This system can be seen on most gutters. But there are also brackets that can be attached to vertical slats. These are screwed into longitudinal slots. This allows them to be mounted differently in height so as to obtain the desired gutter slope.

From this gutters are made today

  • plastic
  • Galvanized steel sheet
  • Non-ferrous metals such as aluminum or copper

The installation of all gutter systems is very similar

The individual elements of a gutter are connected by plugging, soldering or gluing together. But this has no influence on the actual installation of the gutter. You can therefore use the following assembly instructions for all gutters. You then need only follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the gutters or control the soldering.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gutter

  • gutters
  • Gutter
  • Gutter drainage piece for the downpipe
  • gutter iron
  • Elbows
  • downspouts
  • Downpipe clamps (loose and fixed clamps)
  • foliage grid
  • impact drill
  • masonry drill
  • possibly a cordless screwdriver
  • Iron saw, fine-toothed
  • Chisel or chisel
  • hammer
  • possibly soldering tool
  • construction manager
  • guide
  • ruler

1. Mount preparations and first gutter iron

Remove all roof tiles of the first row except for a roof tile slightly offset from the height of the ridge stone.

At the height of the ridge stone, work the first groove in the sparrow. In this groove, the gutter iron is screwed flush or nailed. The groove can be worked out with a saw, chisel or chisel.

Now bend the channel iron so that you position the bow for the gutter so that the gutter will later be one-third of the roof tiles that have been replaced. After you have determined these measurements, you can also pull out the last tile.

2. Tension the tail line and mount the second gutter iron

Fix the guideline exactly where you bent the gutter. Now stretch it to the other end of the roof. Again, work out a groove for the gutter iron in the rafter. Here, too, bend the gutter iron so that it will lie one-third below the roof tiles or the eaves.

Now stretch the guide back, but this time at the lowest point of the arc into which the gutter is laid. By the way, you must also incorporate a gradient into the guideline. As a rule of thumb here are 3 to 7 mm per meter, so for example, 1.5 to 3.5 cm on five meters.

3. Fit the remaining gutter irons

Now mount the remaining gutter irons at a distance of 0.5 to 1.5 m. Make sure the gutter arc is within the dimensions given by the guideline.

4. Fit the gutter

After all gutters have been laid and bolted or pinned down, mount the gutter in the irons. You must work on the joints either in bursts or overlaps, depending on what the manufacturer describes. The same applies to the connection technology: follow the manufacturer's instructions.

5. Mount the downpipe

Now the downpipe is mounted. To do this, insert the first bend into the gutter so that the bow is facing the wall. Hold the second drop tube against the wall and pointing down. Bear in mind the distance from the wall to the clamps you still need to mount. Now measure the distance between both downpipe bends and cut a corresponding piece of downpipe to connect it.

Just below the end between the downpipe bend and the upper downpipe element, fasten a clamp. Use the guideline to determine a vertical and attach the other clamps as well. Finally, a peg, in between Losschellen. For large walls, a third clamp is attached in the middle. The clamps fix at a distance of 2 to 2.5 m.

6. Thesis

After you have successfully installed the gutter and the downpipe, insert the leaf grille into the gutter and cover the removed roof tiles.

Tips & Tricks

Clamps give the downpipe a firm hold, Losschellen give the tube the freedom of movement to respond to temperature differences can.

The waste water from the downpipe can be directed into a catch tank, a sewer or a previously created seepage shaft.

Video Board: Gutter Installation Full Length Video by Tomlinson-Cannon