Install the gutter expertly

Growing the gutter is a classic activity for the savvy home improvement. Although there are as many differences in the materials that make up the gutters as in the connection systems, growing is always very similar. Following you will receive detailed instructions on how to grow your gutter.

Gutters are always important

The gutter not only collects the water from the roof and transports it. It protects the underlying house wall from too much wetting. Even with garden sheds, garages and carports, growing a gutter is therefore extremely useful. But not always, especially in finished products, a gutter is provided. But even on residential buildings, the gutters may need to be renewed.

Gutters materials and connection systems

There are some differences in the materials used as gutters.

  • Sheet steel, mostly galvanized
  • Non-ferrous metals such as copper or aluminum
  • plastic

Connecting elements for gutters

  • stick together (with all materials)
  • solder (for metals)
  • Plug connections (mainly for plastic)

The basic work is always almost the same

You can use our step-by-step instructions for all gutter materials and connection systems. Bear in mind, however, that gluing, plugging or soldering requires different manual requirements. Of course, the respective tool for the individual joining techniques also differs.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gutter

  • gutters
  • gutter iron
  • downspouts
  • Case Elbows
  • Lost and hardcuffs
  • Screws or nails for gutter irons
  • Screw and dowel system for downpipe clamps
  • Scaffolding or easel
  • impact drill
  • masonry drill
  • Cordless Screwdriver
  • hammer
  • crowbar
  • wood saw
  • Iron saw, fine-toothed
  • Chalk line
  • spirit level

1. Preparatory work

Along the eaves, you must remove the bottom row of tiles in order to expose the longitudinal batten. For finished products such as garages or carports, there is often no corresponding roof batten here. Then you have to mount a corresponding longitudinal bar.

2. Fasten the gutter irons

Fasten classic gutter iron

Outside, left and right, at the height of the Dachstein, the first or last Rinneisen is attached. For gutters on conventionally large homes, metal gutters are usually used, which you can bend in length itself.

For the first gutter iron, lift the wood in the width of the iron from the battens. In doing so, you support it so deeply that the trough iron then closes flush with the crossbar when you place the iron in the finished groove. In the groove it is also fastened with screws or nails.

You then bend the gutter iron so that the gutter will later reach about one third below the bottom tile row. After you've screwed or nailed and bent the first Rinneisen, stretch the chime from here to the other end of the roof and back.

The top chalk line aligns in height with the point at which you bent the gutter. When tensioning the chalk line, pay attention to the slope that the gutter will require later. On average, these are between 3 and 7 mm per meter, ie between 3 and 7 cm in the case of a roof length of ten meters.

The lower chalk line tightens them to the lowest position of the gutter bend and then guides them back to the other end of the gutter. Now you can start assembling all the other gutter irons. The distance is between 50 and 100 cm from one to the next gutter iron.

Gutter iron systems for adjustment

Gutter systems for smaller buildings or for flat-mounted strips (at right angles to the ground) are screwed on at the same height. The individual channel iron elements can then be adjusted via screw slots to obtain the required slope.

3. The cultivation of the gutter

Now place the gutter in the gutter. For the first gutter part, pay attention to the closed end piece. Depending on the system, overlap all other gutter elements following the manufacturer's instructions or connect with the plug-in system according to the instructions.

When the gutter is completely attached, lay the leaf grill in the gutter. This is important because otherwise the downpipe could clog later.

4. Install the downpipe

Now that you have inserted and fastened the last gutter element with the downpipe drain, the downpipe follows. Use the spirit level and chalk line to mark the middle of the drain on the house wall.

Now insert the first downpipe bend (bend towards wall) into the drain and hold the second bend (bending from the first arch down to the wall) at the distance to the mark on the wall, how far later the clamp will protrude (3 to 5 cm).

Now measure the downpipe piece that comes between the two bends. About 5 to 10 cm below the second arc, place the marker vertically from the first marker to drill the hole for the first tie.

The clamps are now set every 2 to 2.5 m. The first, the middle and the last ring are fixed, all others loose. For short walls use only clamps as first and last clamp. After the clamps are set, lay the downpipe and screw it.

Tips & Tricks

The difference between loose and fixed clamps is the following: the clamps connect the downpipe firmly to the wall. The Losschnellen also allow the downpipe to respond to large temperature differences. The downpipe may contract and expand.

The downpipe is routed to either a sewer, septic tank or catcher.

The soldering of the gutters is probably the most technically demanding joining technique when growing the gutter. Of course, we also have instructions in the house journal ready - for example, for [Soldering zinc gutters].

Video Board: Installation of the Zambelli Gutter System with Fascia Hangers and Adjustable Fascia Units