Slot and pin

Slot and pin: piece

When connecting with slot and pin becomes a workpiece spigot and in another workpiece slot cut, which can completely absorb the pin. This means that the workpieces are joined together form-fitting. Spigots do not always have to be rectangular Kant pins be, also cylindrical round peg are possible. Slotted and tenon frame connections may also be crimped or grooved, for example, to a crimp or groove glazing to be able to record.

At a Ironing tenon joints, z. B. for a picture frame, are slot and pin at the ends of the wooden parts. The rectangular slot is open on three sides, so you can clearly see the thickness and length of the pin. One therefore speaks of one Full-shock or collar pinwhich pierces the wood completely and flush with its counterpart. The U-bolt connection is much more stable than a simple overlap, because the contact surface between the two workpieces is at least twice as large. In a T-connection like the Anthony Cross, whose blind pins the workpiece is not completely penetrated, you can not see from the outside that it is a compound of slot and pin. This also applies to the Corner joint of slot and tenon with double-sided miter, A special variant of the slot-and-pin connection is when a longer pin - bridge - not flush ends with its counterpart, but protrudes from this. At this Web-wedge connection The protruding pin is secured at its end with a wedge, which can be solved later. For particularly heavily loaded connections or thick frame timbers, it is recommended to connect with several cones manufacture. The calculation of the number of pins is analogous to the calculation of the teeth in zincing, which can be understood as a corner joint with multiple small pin.

Instructions U-bolt connection

Marking slot and tenon

Slot and pin: piece

Angle with stop angle

Slot and pin: frame

Doppelstreichmaß

Slot and pin: piece

Streichmaßrisse on the pin piece

In a frame with rectangular slots and pins, the ends of the longer, upright side panels are mostly designed as slots and the ends of the short cross connections as pins. Thus, the long frame parts are the Slit pieces the short frame parts the Zapf pieces. In general, the Zapf strength on Third of the wood thickness, It is best to always place the opposite frame parts precisely on top of each other and first draw the width of the wood around all edges at the ends of the workpieces. With a stop angle you put in the so-called About angles sure that the lines of the so-called light crack be drawn at right angles to the edges of the workpiece. It gets more elegant, however, if you omit the light rip at the places that are on the visible front and back sides of the frame at least in the slot pieces. The mark out The dimensions for slot and tenon are made by starting with a strike dimension of the light crack starting one third and two thirds of the wood thickness tearing each from the front - on the front side and inside and outside edge of the workpiece. If you use one Doppelstreichmaß, This can be done in one step. The strike outline indicates where the boundary between two wooden parts to be joined will run. Both slit pieces will the middle part when sloping wood marked, with the pin pieces it behaves exactly the other way round.

Sawing slot and tenon

Slot and pin: piece

Zapf piece

Slot and pin: frame

Sawn slots in the spigot

Slot and pin: piece

Sawing the pin piece

After having marked all the necessary dimensions, the two wooden parts are clamped upright and sawed two each slots starting from the front side down to the light crack. Two things are important: you should use a saw with fine teeth. A trimming saw lends itself to this. If the workpieces are not too wide, you can also use a fine saw. You should also always saw on the half-drawn line on the side of the sloping wood. If you saw exactly on the line or even on the wrong side of the line, too much material is removed and the two workpieces are not fit together zusammenzusch.Bei the Zapf pieces It is sufficient to reposition the workpiece in order to cut out the sloping wood with a fine saw. Both slit pieces you have to work differently. You bring the workpiece in the horizontal, so you can edit the slot from the side. To protect the wooden surface, you can pressure allowances use. With a chisel and a joiner's jig you lift out the rectangular slot.

It is important that you circa two millimeters from the light crack does not start to go beyond this. The fine work done only when you have the slot completely up. However, it is only allowed to pry up to the middle of the width and not to the end of the workpiece. In half, the slot piece must be turned and worked from the other side, because it is easier to control how much you take away.

Cleaning, gluing and plastering

Slot and pin: piece

Sawing the pin piece

Slot and pin: piece

Smoothing the pin piece

Slot and pin: piece

Ironing tenon joints

With the Simshobel the pin and with the chisel of the slit is reworked. When the connection has been fitted, you grind all inner edges, glued the frame parts and fixed you. The spigot piece contacts the slot piece with its spigot and sill, which abut the side of the slot piece and determines how deep the spigot can penetrate into the slot. However, it is recommended to coat the spigot only two-thirds and the parapet with glue, because the wood of the spigot piece can then disappear from the outside in without the gap between the parapet wall and the side of the slit piece becoming leaky. To avoid bruises, one should pressure allowances use. Care should be taken to ensure that the printing allowances do not cover the joints of the connection, because they otherwise come into contact with excess glue and thus can stick to the frame. Once the connection has dried, the frame edges are broken and the frame smoothed.

Variant: St. Anthony Cross

Slot and pin: frame

Mark dimensions on the slot piece

Slot and pin: frame

Mark dimensions with double coat size

Slot and pin: slot

Slotted piece with markings

A T-shaped connection is made analogous to a stirrup-pin connection, i. H. The dimensions are torn on the workpieces with the help of a folding rule, stop angle and strike size.

Slot and pin: frame

Drill slot

Slot and pin: frame

Pry out slot

Slot and pin: piece

T-shaped connection of slot and tenon

Only the notching of the wood in the slot piece is done in a different way, because you can edit the workpiece only from above. The slot is milled out with a drill and smoothed with a chisel. The saw is not needed.

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