This is how a decoupling mat for floor coverings works

This is how a decoupling mat for floor coverings works: floor

Floor coverings such as tiles or natural stones are usually on a screed, often this is a cement screed, with which they are firmly glued.

However, this is not advisable on any surface: Whenever the subfloor has tensions, can shift, oscillates or has other movements, the upper deck and the ground should be decoupled.

Uncoupling means: Underground and topping have no fixed connection with each other, but are separated by a decoupling element, which is usually used in the form of a laying-friendly decoupling mat.

Below you will find everything about decoupling systems.

The advantage is obvious: Tensions, vibrations, displacements and component movements are completely or partially absorbed by the decoupling mat and not passed on to the top surface.

This allows tiles, for example, on swinging wooden floorboards misplaced or placed on surfaces where they would otherwise adhere poorly because of old paint or adhesive layers.

Also, movements by drying a young screed or by temperature changes on underfloor heating or balconies absorbs a decoupling mat.

This is how a decoupling mat for floor coverings works: floor

For underfloor heating mats are used, which decouple at the same time and absorb the heating coils.

Decoupling systems: diversity and impact

The systems offered on the market are quite numerous. For example, mats made of plastic or hard foam are used as well as textile fibers.

Each material brings with it its special advantages and properties. Thicker textile products for example, can reduce the impact sound produced when walking on the ground - in part, the manufacturers promise an attenuation of up to 16 dB.

This is how a decoupling mat for floor coverings works: floor

Rigid decoupling elements based on rigid foam allow, for example, the installation of a floor-level shower on beamed ceilings.

The different decoupling mats are usually built up in several layers. in the flexible core The mat absorbs the tension and movements, whereby different materials, which are stacked on top of each other, can be responsible for different loads.

The outer surfaces of the mats are then bonded to the substrate at the bottom and to the top surface using adhesive mortar - tile adhesives are often used for this purpose.

Process decoupling mats

Since, as mentioned, the decoupling systems can be constructed very differently, they are also processed quite differently - sometimes bonded over the entire surface, sometimes loosely laid on the substrate.

This is how a decoupling mat for floor coverings works: this

When processing on the outside - for example on a balcony - the application of glue free of cavities is particularly important.

If you look at this during processing strictly follows the recommendations of the respective manufacturer, you get the best result.

A commonly used processing method is that first the decoupling mat is glued over its entire surface with tile adhesive on the substrate.

For this you should definitely use a high-quality, highly flexible adhesive mortar - after all, this is critical substrates.

Pay attention to cement mortars on the Marking with the abbreviation C2 or on the label "Flexible mortar", on dispersion mortars the abbreviation D2.

The mat is then designed and pressed or rolled according to manufacturer's instructions. Then you lay the tiles or flagstones on the mat - again with highly flexible glue.

It makes sense to use one for the joints highly plastic-coated grout.

Limits of decoupling

Decoupling mats can absorb quite large forces and vibrations, but not arbitrarily large ones. If, for example, the beam distances are too great for a wooden beam ceiling or if the ground consists of material that is not sufficiently rigid, the decoupling can reach its limits. Parts of the loads then penetrate to the topsoil and can lead to damage such as tile breaks or joint cracks.

To get the best possible result, here are some Tips for reducing the risk:

  1. Small tile formats are less susceptible to breaking load than large ones.
  2. An additional layer of laying boards (depending on the situation chipboard, OSB boards, gypsum boards or cement boards), the substrate can be made more rigid.
  3. Skirting boards made of tile strips are not set "crunchy" on the lower decking without gaps, but leave a gap of about 5 mm width.
  4. This joint, like the other connecting and expansion joints, is finally injected with neutral-crosslinking silicone.
  5. Outside on balconies or terraces one moves as free of void as possible. Here, the buttering-floating process can be helpful in which one applies the adhesive mortar to the substrate and in addition to the back of the tile.

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