Lay tiles stable on wood

Tiles and wood as substructure, that does not really fit together at all. Wood works, absorbs moisture, releases it and warps. Tiles, on the other hand, are relatively rigid even with a highly flexible adhesive. Damage to joints and tiles is therefore inevitable. However, there are ways to lay tiles on wood.

Never lay tiles directly on wood, if possible

There is often no other option than to lay tiles on wood. For example, in old buildings, whose floor is a wooden false ceiling. The wooden floorboards attached to it can then still be the "most massive" underground, which is even possible, because an average cement screed and the tiles could be too heavy for the wooden false ceiling. Accordingly, the specialist trade has developed solutions that tiles can be laid on wood reasonably safe. Although it is stated on many Flex tile adhesives that they adhere to wood, but the tension problems persist. Even the direct laying of tiles on special chipboards should be the last option.

Lay tiles on wood with a decoupling

In principle, a further intermediate covering must be mounted on a wooden floor, which is resistant to bending. However, this surface must not move with the wooden floorboards underneath, so it must be decoupled from it. There are many different systems that are laid either loosely or firmly connected. However, the perfect solution does not yet exist. Only a "best possible" solution. The laying of a loose decoupling means that the entire floor is later only limited load capacity. Therefore, we describe below the tiles on wood with a permanently installed decoupling.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles stably on wood

  • tiling
  • Flexible tile adhesive
  • Flex grout
  • silicone
  • putty
  • decoupling plates
  • Armierungsgewebe
  • priming
  • screw
  • Cordless Screwdriver
  • spatula
  • trowel
  • notched trowel
  • drilling machine
  • mixing paddle
  • Quast
  • silicone syringe
  • pointing trowel
  • Fug board with hard rubber

1. Preparation of the wooden floor

First, you have to screw loose wooden planks again. Make sure that the screws are all sunk in the planks. Under no circumstances may you nail the planks. You can now compensate for large bumps with the putty.

2. decoupling from the wooden floor

For extremely vibrating wooden floors, you must now mount the decoupling. The decoupling plates are screwed to the wooden floor. Subsequently, a reinforcing mesh is designed and the decoupling plates are filled with flexible tile adhesive. Before you can start tiling, you must allow the surface to dry completely. This can take up to two days.

3. Lay tiles on wood

Now the tile adhesive is mixed to lay tiles. The tile adhesive is applied in a thin-bed process. With the tooth trowel you form webs. Pay attention to a sufficiently large distance of the conventional as well as the expansion joints at the edge.

4. Grouting the tiles laid on wood

Now you can start grouting. Again, use a flexible joint mortar. Grout the tiles as with all other tile surfaces. Use a joint trowel and grout board. Shortly before drying, then sponge the joints with a sponge board or tile sponge something out. Afterwards you can grout the expansion joints with silicone.

Tips & Tricks

Only use really high quality materials from well-known manufacturers. Only these building materials, which have been developed with the necessary effort, provide the necessary security for tiles on wood. Of course, the same applies explicitly to the flexible joint compound and the flexible adhesive.

Even if some manufacturers release it, you should not lay tiles directly on chipboard. Again, you must first provide for a decoupling.

When preparing the wooden floor, please pay attention to damp areas. These must first be renovated. In this context, it must also be ensured that the wooden floor has a good ventilation - otherwise it will literally later be your fault.

Video Board: Preparing Subfloor for Tile