Grind wood flooring thoroughly and professionally


Wooden floorboards have been used as flooring for centuries. For a long time it was simply the building material with the best price-performance ratio, while today it is a noble flooring. Accordingly, many do-it-yourselfers and real estate owners strive to preserve their wood planks in the long term. A regular activity is the sanding of wooden floorboards.

Sanding wooden floorboards is the big advantage of wooden floorboards

What may seem like a disadvantage of wooden planks is actually one of the numerous advantages. The ability to grind wooden planks creates opportunities: Damage caused by chair castors or stiletto heels, running marks, cracks and numerous other damages can be quickly and efficiently eliminated by sanding the wooden planks. The numerous plank treatment options range from liming, pickling, leaching and oiling to painting, so even temporal color trends can always be followed. The wooden floor sanding is therefore not only a pure maintenance measure, also can be wooden floorboards adapted to the current lifestyle.

Wooden floorboards grind like the savvy craftsman

However, it is important when sanding the wooden floorboards to work accurately and cleanly. A few decades ago, work on the wooden floorboards was still associated with a great deal of work, but today the same professional machines as the craftsman are available to the savvy do-it-yourselfer. Large roll grinders and polishers are available in almost every small town.

Likewise, the sanding machines for corners and edges. It is only important that the machines are operated correctly, as it is often due to a lack of knowledge that the result of sanding the wooden planks is not quite as good as desired. For this you can consult the following step-by-step instructions, the result after the wood plank grinding will not differ from the experienced craftsman.

Step by step sanding wooden planks with the right sandpaper

  • Sandpaper in different grain sizes
  • if necessary care and polishing oil
  • possibly parquet soap
  • Belt or roll grinding machine
  • Corner grinder (eccentric or delta)
  • polisher
  • alternatively angle or disc sander
  • vacuum cleaner
  • Wet cleaners
  • Respirator
  • ear protection

1. Choosing the right sanding paper

a) Grit for the first sanding cycle

The grain size of the abrasive paper you start with depends heavily on the wooden planks to be sanded. For a new wooden floor, you use the grain size 40, for an old, for example, oiled wooden floor 24 and for old wooden floor boards with lacquer layer 16 for the roller and belt sander.

b) Grain for the second sanding cycle

With new wooden planks sandpaper of the grain size 60 is used, with all other wood plank floors 40.

c) Grit for the third sanding cycle

For new wooden planks, the next step is the use of 100 grit sandpaper. For long-lasting wooden planks, you can now clamp 60 grit sandpaper.

d) Grain for the fourth sanding cycle

As with newly laid wooden planks, you can now also use the grain size 100 on old wooden floorboards for sanding.

e) The last sanding cycle - the finish

The last sanding cycle now only polishes, as you can read in the following steps. But you can also do a final sanding with sandpaper in a grain size of 120 to 150.

2. Sanding wooden boards, first sanding pass

For the first sanding pass, grind the large areas diagonally to the floorboard, line by rail, using the roller grinder. Sand the first half of the room, then the second. Repeat this sanding cycle, if necessary, until all supernatants have been completely removed and old paint layers are completely removed. In the meantime, grind the corners and edges down to the same level with the corner grinder.

3. Sand wooden boards, second to fourth sanding pass

All subsequent sanding passes do not lead you diagonally anymore, instead you grind with the longitudinal course of the wooden planks. They also loop again, track by track - the second, then the third and finally the fourth loop. With each grinding pass, you also grind corners and edges with the same sanding paper with the eccentric or delta grinding as with the roll grinder.

4. Sanding wooden planks - the finish

Whether you polish with the polishing machine with pads and polishing or care oil or with up to a 150 grit fine sandpaper, depends on your wishes as well as on the previously achieved grinding results. Experienced craftsmen grind the wood planks in the finish mostly with correspondingly fine grit with an angle grinder. However, this requires a lot of experience and the resulting instinct (grooves and chatter marks). Whether you polish in care oil or wax is also dependent on how you treat the wooden planks or just do not want to treat them.

Tips & Tricks

Before sharpening, insert protruding nails into the wooden planks and insert screws. Cracks and joints can be filled up later, if desired.

Never stay with the roller grinder, otherwise it will grind proper recesses in the wooden planks. When working with the other equipment (plate or angle grinder and corner grinder), you must be careful that neither depressions are created nor burned on the surface of the wooden planks.

After sanding the wooden planks, you can treat the floor differently: you can lye, stain, varnish and varnish, oil, lime, smoke etc.

When renting roller and corner grinders, look for equipment with a dust and sawdust bag. This protects your health despite the protective mask significantly (decades old glazes can be carcinogenic when they are released), in addition, you have to clean much less, with the fine wood dust is hardly completely remove.


Video Board: Sanding and Refinishing Hardwood Floors (step by step)