Paint wooden furniture in craftsmanship quality

There are many reasons for painting wooden furniture. You can also paint your wood furniture with varnish or transparent varnish to obtain the grain. In addition, you can distinguish between untreated wood surfaces and those with an old finish. In the following, detailed step-by-step instructions for painting wooden furniture, we will show you how to paint such wooden furniture in high-quality painter quality.

Preparatory work for painting wood furniture depends on various factors

Even the most beautiful wooden furniture does not look like new after a few years. However, the quality of workmanship is in most cases okay. Who then sweeps such furniture, gets back with little effort again first-class looking wooden furniture. In addition, there are also wooden furniture that has not yet been treated. To protect the wood, painting or glaze is recommended in any case. So first, you need to answer the following questions before you get started.


  • Is it untreated "raw" wood or already provided with an old paint?
  • do you want to apply a colored varnish or paint a transparent glaze?
  • is it solid wood furniture or a veneer?
  • must damage be repaired?

Prime wooden furniture or not

If you want to paint a veneer, a primer is recommended. This also closes any gaps and cracks on the edges from the transition of the veneer to the wood. Otherwise, it is sufficient if you apply the paint or varnish in three steps as a pre-, intermediate and top coat.

The material for painting your wooden furniture

Depending on how you can answer the preceding questions, the following material and tool lists vary.

Step-by-step instructions for painting wooden furniture

  • possibly primer (veneer)
  • Paint system (acrylic paint, synthetic resin paint, etc.)
  • Pickling (paste or fluid)
  • various fillers (for wood, polyester or paint spatula)
  • Sandpaper in different grain sizes
  • white spirit
  • duct tape
  • sander
  • sanding block
  • different spatulas
  • possibly hot air blower
  • brush
  • Paint and lacquer rollers
  • Paint tray with scraper

1. Preparatory work

Additionally for wood furniture with old paint

First you have to remove the old paint. Either sand it off, treat the surface of the paint with a hot air blower and smooth the paint or you pick the piece of furniture.

All wooden furniture

Now you moisten the wood, even untreated furniture. As a result, the wood swells and loose fibers stand up. Using a suitable sanding paper, sand the wood surface roughly. Then let the wood dry completely.

Repair damage

Now fill in damages with a suitable spatula. Allow the putty used to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions and grind the puttied areas flat.

grinding work

Now grind the wooden furniture roughly with a suitable sandpaper. A grain size around 120 is suitable. In the second sanding pass, they then use a grain size of at most 150, at the last sanding then at most 180 grain size.

Cleaning and masking of wooden furniture

Clean the prepared pieces of furniture with turpentine substitute, so that no grease residue sticks. In addition, wiping with a dust-binding varnishing cloth is recommended. If the furniture is later varnished, every little inclusion is very visible - especially with colored varnishes. Then glue off areas and areas that should not be painted.

2. Prime the wooden furniture

As already mentioned, you should especially paint veneered wooden furniture with a primer in order to explicitly close cracks and smallest fissures at the edges. For all other wood furniture you do not need a primer, unless you want to apply a barrier layer (barrier primer).

3. Painting the wooden furniture

Now you can start painting the wooden furniture. Use a suitable paint roller or paint roller. First paint the used varnish lengthwise in four to five lengths. Then roll the painted paint across to finish the paint. In the same technique you now perform a total of three coats: the pre-coat, an intermediate coat and a top coat.

The painting of a glaze

If you paint a transparent glaze, first apply a pre-coat with the glaze. Let this primer dry completely, then sand the pre-glazed wooden furniture with a fine sandpaper with a grain size greater than 200. Again clean the piece of furniture intensively from dust and grinding dust and varnish the top coat.

4. Reworking

If you are not really satisfied with the final result, you can sand down the last coat with a very fine sandpaper or even polishing paste and then paint again. Fits everything, let the paint dry completely before removing the tape.

Tips & Tricks

If you want to paint offset surfaces (multicolored paints), allow the primer to dry completely. Then stick it around the surface to be painted in another color with adhesive tape. Many people are already painting with the other color and are annoyed because it can lead to progress under the tape. Therefore paint the taped area again with the base color. So you practically seal the tape, and the painting in a second color shows up with razor sharp edges.

The paint rollers have foam and flock rollers. Foam rolls are used for synthetic resin lacquers, flock rolls for acrylic lacquer.

If the type of wood used in your furniture is a resin that has a high resin content, a primer is also recommended as the paint could otherwise react with the resin. This applies to new, untreated pieces of furniture.

Before you finish varnish, always carry out the first coat following the grain.

Of course, the house journal also offers you numerous guides for editing and painting other materials, for example for [painting metal] or for [painting bitumen].

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