Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: wooden

Ricc - I blog for you

No, of course I'm not starting to write about cooking recipes. Today it is about residual wood, which has found a meaningful use in the kitchen.

It's really just about simple boxes, which, however, ensure much more order. In the sink cabinet are always our potatoes - are not much, since we are not big potato eaters. Now, every now and then kollern out of the network, the dirt crumbles out as well... In short, I do not like it. Of course you could have taken some finished cardboard or something, but where is my fun? Finally, the glue wood residues in my workshop sometimes have to become less. Incidentally, I'll create even more order by building two boxes and the whole Vorratsabwaschabappen, sponges, Schmutzradierer.... and whatever woman has to have so much (just like shoes) find a place as well.

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard

Dimensions and cut

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: cupboard

cut

The scale was pretty simple. Maximum height, width, depth and then adjust what is still available in the workshop. I would gladly have taken advantage of the maximum height and sunk the rollers, but since mainly only wood with 20cm was around, I resembled the height and will just put the rolls under it. Not nice, but just handy in this case.

Equally unpleasant but practical is the planned construction of the boxes. Actually, I put a board over the entire height and width in front to achieve a nicer appearance, but since this does not matter in this case and I would not come to the necessary width, the front and rear board sits between the side panels.

Do not be surprised that some boards are green. As a Bosch fan, my workshop looked suitable and the old shelves had to make way for a conversion. You have to set priorities.

Drill grip holes

Of course, the boxes should be easy to pull out and carry. For that I like to use grip holes, which are easy to make. They are worked out very quickly and the tools are limited: hole saw, jigsaw and router.

Of course, the size of the holes is important. You simply take a folding rule or similar and measure the width of the hand - mine is about 10cm - and already has the first dimension. At the height you can be a bit more generous and I just kept a few hole saws next to it. I landed then at about 30 mm. The two hole cut-outs must be separated by 70 mm. I have drilled these up to half on the bench drill with a stop on the cover. So one stop up to the edge and one to the left. First one side is drilled, then the board is turned and the second side is drilled. Once all four boards have been prepared, the side stop can be bored away and the holes drilled through from the second side. Ricc's tip: Just drill so deep until the core is out. The deeper you go then, the deeper the neckline presses into the hole saw and then fumbling out of the hot hole saw is no fun.

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: boxes

Stop at the top and left of the bench drill

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: boxes

drill on envelope from both sides

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: boxes

Drill holes from the second side without stop

Of course you could also use a Forstner drill, only for such simple work, I prefer to use the cheap tool and save the other.

Forming grip holes

The second step is just as easy. For this purpose, the radii of the holes are connected with a tangent and afterwards cut out with the jigsaw. Since the contour is rounded later and manually neatly sanded, it is not so wild if the cut is not quite accurate.

We're already milling. However, before the edge can be rounded, of course, the small paragraph that has been made by sawing from two sides must be eliminated. For this purpose, the contour is simply bypassed from both sides with a trimming cutter. This has the advantage that even oblique cuts, which are often caused by old jigsaws, are straightened. But now can be rounded. Of course not, without Ricc's tip: Do you want to round off from both sides, it would of course look great, if there is a real semicircle. Unfortunately this does not work (in this case). If a radius is milled from the first side, which goes over half the board thickness, the stop ring of the milling cutter on the second side has no contact surface. So always use a radius cutter that is smaller than half the board thickness.

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: order

Connect holes

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: holes

Cut with the jigsaw

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: holes

Fillet on the milling table

Drill screw holes

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: boxes

Drill screw holes

Now comes the simple part - the screw holes have to be pre-drilled. If screws are to be used. Only glue would certainly hold and dowels would be optimal. But for my purposes it gets glue and screws. This has the advantage that the glue keeps well, but the boxes do not have to be braced forever. And anyone who has ever tried to put only glued surfaces flush to each other and to tense, without something slipping, will certainly like to use an auxiliary screw.

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: wooden

Align the stopper

I used again to drill a stop and thus needed to mark the holes only on a board. But important is the exact alignment to the edge, so that the screwdriver really engages in the middle of the board later. Surely this is measured by, but it is easier with a piece of wood in the appropriate board thickness. If this is placed upright against the stop, it is very easy to check whether the drill sits in the middle. Ricc's tip: The glue wood is rarely straight and even if screws are used, screw clamps help with a flush connection. But always use at least one screw first. The boards otherwise slip quickly due to the glue.

Grinding and assembly

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: holes

finished glued and screwed

Well, found a mistake? Of course I sanded the sides of the boards, which are later inside, shortly after cutting. It will be damn difficult after assembly. ?

Now everything is bolted and the insides are already sanded, the boxes can be sanded from the outside. Since I had some color to remove, I started with 80s and went over 160s to 240s. Finally, all edges were rounded on the milling table and the grip holes were reground manually. My question about a surface treatment negated my wife and so the boxes are left untreated. In my nursery furniture, I have thus made quite good experiences.

Although roles are actually planned, but my wife said in this point, that does not have to be. So I'm still undecided.

Wooden boxes for more order in the cupboard: cupboard

ready for use

Video Board: Laura´s Wooden Projector Cabinet