Make the worktop connection yourself

Make the worktop connection yourself: corner

Whether in the kitchen, the workshop or as a desk - Worktops offer a very straight surface, are massive and suitable for many purposes. The advantage is a rounded visible surface, which avoids sharp edges and the worktop takes the typical simple look.

Especially in the kitchen or workshop, however, often long work surfaces are in demand, so that several worktops must be connected together along or corner. To create a solid and secure connection here is the use of worktop connectors indispensable. They offer scope, so that an exact alignment is guaranteed and press the edges together.

Many hardware stores offer the service to mill corner joints according to templates and to immediately use purchased countertops. The costs are between 30 € and 50 €. Frequently, however, the service is only offered for purchased in the hardware store worktops. If the worktops have been purchased elsewhere, the remaining materials have been processed in the workshop, or if adjustments have to be made on site, it is advisable to use the connectors in the local workshop. This reduces the costs and makes it possible to make adjustments directly.

What is needed to connect a worktop yourself?

Required machine tools and tools

  • Measuring equipment (folding rule or steel measure)
  • Scriber (pencil)
  • Bench drill or cordless screwdriver / drill with Forstner drill
  • Router with slot cutter
  • If necessary circular saw or dip saw

Effort specific knowledge

  • Effort: low
  • Experience in using the router

Needed time

  • About 30 minutes for measuring and sawing the worktop parts
  • About 45 minutes to drill and mill the connectors

Prerequisite for a barely visible corner joint

If the worktop has a round edge, there must be corner transitions between two plates always in the middle of the room corner become.

The transition between contours and radii can only be done cleanly and without paragraphs, when the adjacent cut surfaces are absolutely identical. To ensure this, the contact surfaces must always be cut centrally to the later angle. If the angle of the corner of the room is exactly 90°, the cut of the contact surfaces must be made at an angle of 45°. If the room corner is not rectangular, both cut surfaces must be adjusted accordingly.

Basic can corner joints in two different variants be executed.

Worktop corner joint with the circular saw

Make the worktop connection yourself: corner

Corner joint with diagonal cut

The simplest variant of a corner joint is a diagonal cut with a circular saw. As mentioned above, the cutting angle on both worktops must be exactly half of the solid angle. Advantageous is the fairly simple design, and that no special tools are needed. A guide rail and a circular saw are sufficient for this purpose, wherein the guide rail can also be replaced by similar aids, such as a straight bar, a spirit level or a straight bar. This variant of the corner design can thus be executed in every home workshop.

Make the worktop connection yourself: make

Corner connection with milling template

The disadvantage of this variant, however, is the relatively large waste. Each of the worktops must be cut one corner at a time, which is about 60 cm wide, depending on the depth of the panel. For a standard worktop of 60 cm depth In total, a total of 60 x 60 cm is produced, which can hardly be used elsewhere.

Countertop corner joint using a milling template

Almost no waste, the corner joint comes from a milling template. The necessary diagonal cut takes place here only on a short length, which is slightly larger than the length of the rounding. With a rounded transition, the further cut is made parallel to the cutting edge of the worktop. The fitting worktop must therefore be rounded only in the same shape. The waste is limited to a few centimeters and the existing worktop can be used almost completely.

Needed of course is this a milling template, after both worktops must be edited. The also required router must be stable enough to work the worktop in full height (usually 4 cm) absolutely exactly. Even the smallest deviations later lead to an unclean connection.

Tear must be accurate, but also leaves a lot of room

Make the worktop connection yourself: yourself

Important dimensions are indicated on the packaging

If the panels are cut according to one of the two variants, the subsequent connection can be prepared using worktop connectors. All important dimensions and information are already on the packaging. First, the length is important. In this case 70mm. This refers to the centers of the two holes and is needed at the crack. The length of the connector, however, only plays a minor role. It is decisive only if there are cutouts in the worktop directly next to the bumper edge.

Make the worktop connection yourself: connection

Tear must be parallel to the outer edge

Further required dimensions can be found in the detailed drawing. The diameter of the hole (35mm) and the depth (20mm) should be important and respected. The distance to the front or rear edge, serves more as a guide and can be adapted to the respective conditions. The groove width (15mm) can also be adjusted according to the respective slot cutters. But it should be ensured that the connecting screw fits into the groove and the groove is not too wide. The narrower and more precisely the groove is worked, the more secure is the grip afterwards, but it also has to be worked more precisely.

The given dimensions are now transferred to the two worktop parts to be joined. It is very helpful when both parts can be placed in their later position turned over on a flat surface next to each other. This is how the holes can be Mark exactly and at an angle to the connecting edge and also mill the grooves of both plates later in one go.

Drilling with the bench drill or a cordless drill

Make the worktop connection yourself: worktop

The bench drill allows exact drilling

For the next step is recommended a bench drill with depth stop, If necessary, the holes can also be realized with a cordless screwdriver, which, however, requires a greater force and a constant control of the drilling depth with a bore diameter of 35 mm. If the drilling depth can not be maintained exactly, it should be drilled so deep that the screw connection (threaded rod) rests later in the groove and the retaining plates do not touch the bottom of the bore. Only in this way can it be ensured that the connector nevertheless runs parallel to the surface of the worktop and does not displace it during clamping.

If a bench drill is available, both holes can be made to the same depth and later serve the parallel seat of the screw. Is no suitable Forstner drill available, The diameter of the drill may also differ slightly. However, it should be considered that the retaining plates then not exactly abut the wall of the bore and can deform the wood.

The specified depth of 20 mm is only a guide and can be varied depending on the thickness of the plate. The more exactly half the thickness of the worktops is used, the lower the risk of distortion of the plates during clamping. The Exact Depth lets you quickly determine However, deep holes make it difficult to screw in later, since there is less room for movement for the screwing tool.

Plate thickness / 2 + height of connector / 2 = center hole depth

Milling the groove with the router

The last step is the milling of the groove. For the parallel course, a rip fence or a guide rail can be used.

Make the worktop connection yourself: worktop

By means of stop the groove becomes straight

To both countertops exactly in a run To mill, it is recommended to use a stop bar. This can be a straight bar, a straightedge or similar. If these are fixed to the worktops with screw clamps (do not forget the underlays so as not to damage the surface), the worktops can be aligned at the same time, resulting in a more accurate picture when joined later.

The milling depth depends on the specifications or the depth of the drill holes. If these were executed exactly, can the milling done to the same degree, small deviations are not disturbing. In the case of non-exact drill holes, the milling depth specifies the parallel course of the screw connection and may only be carried out so deeply that the screw connection rests on the ground of the milling. The retaining plates do not touch the bottom of the holes.

Join worktops and seal

With proper preparation, the connectors are easy to use. For sealing, it is recommended to coat both edges of the worktops with silicone. This should be applied as much that the silicone swells when pressed at the top. The leaking silicone must be removed immediately with a damp cloth. Some rinse aid helps to avoid sticking on the surface. For safety, the surface next to the cut edge can be masked with adhesive tape before joining. It is exactly when a wide strip is placed over the cut edge of the positioned worktops and then separated with a cutter knife at the cutting edge. So no silicone gets on the work surface.

Make the worktop connection yourself: yourself

Mask off edges with painter's crepe

Make the worktop connection yourself: connection

Silicone seals the cut edge

Make the worktop connection yourself: make

Worktop connector correctly used

The screwing of the plates takes place only when they are in their final position on a substructure or cabinets. Hereby, the screwing is done overhead. The annoying falling out of the screw can be avoided by a strip of tape in the direction of the cutting edge on the milled groove with the threaded bolt is glued.

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Video Board: How to Fit a Kitchen Worktop with Wickes